May 12, 2021
Hello! Today we're sharing a video that will help elevate your finishing on lightweight and sheer fabrics. I absolutely love this technique, and our testers on the Lola blouse and dress found this one of their favourite things about the pattern. It makes a tiny, delicate hem very achievable.
This finish is also known as a "baby hem", but I prefer "pin hem". It is believed that the term "pin hem" refers to the fact that it is super delicate - narrow as a pin! It's funny how many terms there are for different techniques in sewing.
In the video, I show a lightly curved edge, which is why I clip into it, but for a straight edge, you do not need to do any clipping. One more note, you will want to use a hem allowance of 1/2" (1.3cm) for this finish.
This finish is fully illustrated in the pattern booklet for Lola, but now, we have videos too. The first version is the long version, with a voiceover. But if you just want the "cheat sheet", check out the second video - it contains the highlights edited into one minute!
Pin hems are a great finish for lightly curved edges, such as the boatneck neckline on our Lola dress. It avoids the need for heavy finishes such as facings, which do not work well for sheers and lightweight fabrics.
Because a pin hem is such a narrow finish, it avoids the issues that wider hems cause with curved edges. Anyone who's tried a wide hem on a curved edge knows that it is a recipe for a puckery nightmare!
Take a look at the neckline on this sheer silk Lola. It has been finished with a pin hem. Such a delicate, tiny finish! It really complements the airy fabric, and keeps it perfectly lightweight.
The Lola below also makes use of the pin hem technique. This time, the technique is used on the boat neck, as well as the sleeve hems. These are both lightly curved edges which are perfect candidates for a pin hem. It allows the fabric to delicately drape at the sleeve. A heavier finish like a facing or wide hem would cause bulk, and stick out from the body.
This Lola is paired with our Sabrina pencil skirt.
I hope you learned a lot about this wonderful hemming technique and are inspired to use it to elevate the finish on your next lightweight project. It really makes tiny hems so manageable, and the results are fabulous.
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