We wanted to keep Vera as accessible as possible. The pattern is available for free, or there are options to offer a little tip. For those that choose to pay for the pattern, thank you so much! It all goes into making more beautiful sewing patterns!
Vera made up in a lovely merino jersey, worn with an Ella skirt.
If you're just getting to know Vera, she's our elevated V-neck top pattern with loads of options! Designed for knit fabrics, the Vera top is fitted at the bust with mild shaping at the side seams which creates a relaxed fit through the waist. The hemline is a mild high-low shape.
This take on a bishop sleeve features two different cuff options. Or, you can leave the cuff off for a fun flared sleeve. The V-neck and the gathering create extra interest and transform this comfy tee into an artful top!
If you've already got the old version of Vera printed and you're wondering if you need to re-print, do not worry. There are no significant changes to the pattern other than new sizes! The only (very minor) change is that we tweaked the grade in the length of the body while expanding the sizing range, so some sizes may be slightly longer by a few millimetres. That's it!
As for the booklet, no major changes have been made; the booklet has simply been updated to include the new sizing information. In addition, because the print-at-home printing layout has been updated to include the larger sizes, the printing instructions are updated too.
In order to prevent confusion with your printing, the original instructions should be used with the original pattern (sizes 28 to 48), and the updated instructions should be used with the updated pattern (sizes 28 to 56). Keep it simple!
Our shiny new projector file has all the quality features you love, such as thick 4pt lines, size layers, mirrored pattern pieces, light/dark modes, and grids for checking the scale. It's really great to be able to offer this extra accessibility and I hope it delights the projector users out there!
Vera in a viscose jersey
Vera wasn't the only one who got the update! Our scoop neck expansion kit has also been expanded. Not only is it compatible with the Vera top, but also the Iris Pleated Tee! With the update of the scoop neck, we took the time to tweak the fit slightly, tightening up the front of the neck band approximately 6mm (1/4") as well as lowering the back neck shaping a little too. It's a small tweak, but it reflects the attention to detail that is so important to us! The good news is if you have already bought the scoop neck expansion and want to have the latest version, you will be sent the new files for free.
We've really enjoyed seeing the Vera top being made up so many times already and all your kind words about the pattern. And we're proud to continuously work to improve our offerings so more can enjoy them.
You can check out many wonderful customer creations on Instagram using the #fmnVera tag. Go ahead and tag us with #fmnVera when you make yours, so we can see all your beautiful Vera tops! Please enjoy the update, and happy sewing!
]]>
I can confidently say that the Forget-me-not Helmi Blouse is one of my top favourite sewing patterns. When I made my first one last year, I was so impressed with the fit that I knew it would become my go-to blouse pattern. This is my third version (and a fourth is coming soon!) and I decided to change it up by shortening the sleeve and adding a bit of gathering to the shoulder for a bit of fun volume.
I fell in love with Helmi the first time I saw the style lines. Particularly the version with the Peter Pan collar. It’s amazing to me how something as simple as a collar can define a garment. To me the Peter Pan collar is dressy, but playful and romantic without being too frilly. It nods to vintage styles, while feeling very modern and cool at the same time. The Helmi pretty much sums up my style goals in one blouse!
On the practical side, the fit is impeccable. I still made my standard narrow and sloping shoulder adjustments that I make on almost every pattern, but I love not having to do a full bust adjustment. Thank you bust cup options! There’s almost no puckering at the dart tip (my sewing nemesis) and there’s no extra pooling around the underarm. Beyond fit, the pattern instructions are so thorough and thoughtful. The construction is really satisfying and the blouse comes together so smoothly. I love that there are options to use french seams, or not, and extra help for working with sheer or slippery fabrics.
Speaking of fabrics, I sprung for a Liberty Tana Lawn for this project. I’d been eyeing this fabric for ages, but it seemed like a big investment. I was waiting on the right project before jumping in, and this Helmi blouse was the perfect choice. The print feels very “me.” I like the juxtaposition of the soft floral on the earthy ochre background. It feels whimsical, but also grounded.
Having never worked with Liberty fabrics before, I can now say, the hype is real. Cotton lawn has the magical ability to drape beautifully, and still hold a bit of crisp volume. It’s lightweight and silky - I love the way it feels on my skin. And it was a breeze to sew with!
With the pattern and fabrics settled, I knew I wanted to personalise this version of the Helmi blouse. I chose to shorten the sleeve and add a little poof at the shoulder. The additional gathering at the shoulder was purely for visual interest, but opting for a short sleeve was a both functional and stylistic choice.
Based on how much I love both the pattern and the fabric, I knew I’d want to sew something that I could wear through all seasons. With the shorter sleeve, I can layer it up under chunky cardigans or jumpers with jeans and pinafores for colder weather. In the warmer months, I’m excited to wear it with my favourite denim Natalie skirt, as well as casual shorts and sandals.
The busy print was the other factor that influenced me to shorten the sleeve. I felt like the deep ochre and the concentrated floral print might come off a bit strong in a full length sleeve. I love the balance of the final garment. It feels bold, but also sweet and romantic, soft and down to earth.
As for how I changed the sleeve, it was quite easy because of the combination of shortening and widening the sleeve cap. I was really worried about doing it the “right” way. I had to remind myself that pattern hacking is about experimentation, not perfection. Since I’m just designing for me, I can embrace it as an art, rather than a science.
I was initially worried about keeping the sleeve’s hem curve intact, but then I realised that it would change anyway when I applied the “Slash and Spread” method to the sleeve cap. I measured from my shoulder point to the edge of my elbow, which came to just above where elbow is marked on the pattern piece. From that point, I drew a sraight line perpendicular to the grainline and cut there to shorten the sleeve.
The “Slash and Spread” method to widen the sleeve cap is exactly what it says - slashing the pattern and spreading it out! I drew some lines within the sleeve cap parallel to the grainline down to, but not through, the hem edge. I chose to make the hem edges hinge points, because the pattern is already made to add gathering at the hem, so I didn’t need to add any width there.
With some blank pattern paper underneath, I spread the piece out and taped down the cut pieces semi-evenly. The principle here is the further the spread, the bigger the poof. I knew I wanted just enough of a poof for some visual interest at the shoulder, but not so much that I wouldn't be able to fit a cardigan over the sleeve. From there, I traced the general shape of my new piece, transferred the notches and I was ready to cut into my fabric.
I also added a little bit of width to the sleeve binding piece. I didn't make a new pattern piece, rather I just measured my arm above my elbow, adding a little extra length for seam allowance and ease.
I marked my bodice piece where I wanted to concentrate the gathering - 7 centimetres (2 ¾ inches) on either side of the shoulder seam. Initially I only sewed my basting stitches along the sleeve head where I wanted the gathering, but I ended up having to remove them. Evidently my sleeve pieces had stretched on the bias, and I was struggling to match the curves of the armscye and sleeve. I added new basting stitches along the whole sleeve piece, which allowed me to ease it into those trickier curves and still have my gathering at the shoulder. It was a tiny setback, but a pretty easy remedy.
Other than my little sleeve ease snafu, the sewing process was such a delight. The instructions are so clear and detailed, holding my hand the whole way through. Plus, my fabric was a dream to sew up. I’m not exaggerating when I say that every seam was a joy to sew and press.
I sewed the shoulder and side seams using French seams, per the pattern suggestion. Everything from the collar, down to the sleeve binding is so neatly finished. I even took the time to do a covered button for the neckline closure - it’s tucked under the collar where no one else can see it, but I love knowing it’s there. It really feels like an heirloom garment - something that I’ll enjoy for years to come and eventually pass down for someone else to cherish in the future.
This Helmi blouse represents everything I love about making my own clothing. Between the playfully romantic style lines of the Helmi pattern, the sweet but sturdy print of the cotton lawn and my own handiwork in both changing up the design, then constructing the garment itself, I love this make. It’s beautiful, but holds a deeper meaning for me too.
It reminds me that I’m also playful and romantic! Sweet but sturdy. That I can be creative, flexible and follow through on a vision. What an empowering affirmation! And one that I can think of whenever I wear this blouse - which, spoiler alert, will be all the time!
Thanks so much for joining me on this sewing journey. I hope you’re feeling inspired to add your own personal touch to your favourite pattern, or to try out the Helmi blouse soon. Thanks so much for reading and happy making!
You can grab your copy of the Helmi blouse pattern in our store here!
]]>I loved the sleek style of the darted flat front. I decided that for my personal version, I'd also like darts at the back waist as well. I added a zip and wrote a blog post all about it. So many of you loved it too, and expressed your interest in making your own darted version! What started as a little pattern hack turned into a passion project. And here we are - Rosalie has her own pattern expansion!
To make the darted-back Rosalie skirt, get our new expansion pattern pieces (download here on our site). For the sewing instructions, you'll need the base pattern (available here from Peppermint). Both the base pattern and expansion are available for free or to pay what you can.
Above: The darted Rosalie in black tencel/rayon blend shown off with our Helmi blouse.
We loved the original Rosalie so much, that we knew we wanted more from this beautiful design! Adding the straight waistband and invisible zip not only makes the design more versatile, but also appeals to different personal preferences. (Even among the FMN team, Bri loves elastic everything, but Jo is team zip all day long!) Don't get us wrong, elastic waistbands certainly have their place, but we know they're not for everyone or for every occasion.
Our Rosalie pattern expansion is designed to complement the Peppermint Magazine version of the pattern, so for full, in-depth sewing instructions, we recommend downloading the Peppermint pattern. Our version is an expansion of extra pattern pieces only. However, we still wanted to prioritise quality, of course. The PDF files have our usual printing options with layers, as well as a projector file! It's graded in our expanded size range, with fit options so you can get the best finished garment possible.
Switching out elastic to darts can get pretty involved, which is why we didn't want to leave it as a pattern hack option. As a designer, I am pretty obsessed with getting a great fit, so I designed the back to have two fit styles across the whole size range! It's important to note that we refer to "standard" and "curvy" in terms of body proportions, because we know that body variation occurs for all sizes!
The standard fit offers a great fit for straighter figures with a narrower waist to hip ratio. There's a slimmer dart in the back and more ease in the hip. The standard fit includes hips 32.5" (83cm) to 60.5" (153cm) with finished garments measuring 35.5" (91cm) to 63.5" (161cm) at the hip.
The curvy fit is designed for a wider waist to hip ratio. It has a wider back dart, with more width across the back. It's more tailored, with less ease through the hip. The hem flounce is also widened to match the back skirt. The curvy fit includes hips 35.5" (91cm) to 63" (161cm) with finished garments measuring 36.5" (93.5cm) to 64.5" (163.5cm) at the hip.
To choose between fit styles, first note your waist size on the size chart. Then determine if the hip size closest to your measurement is marked as "standard" or "curvy". If you fall between sizes or fits, don't worry! Rosalie is drafted with wide seam allowances through the sides and centre back, so she can be easily tailored to your needs.
We love balancing versatility and uniqueness in our designs and Rosalie is no exception. The front V with the high-low hem flounce certainly make a statement, but fabric choice has a huge influence on the final look.
We love the soft, cottage-core vibes of this linen plaid. The Rosalie works so well in linen blends like this one. Linens and lightweight cottons, like lawn and chambray, are great for offering both body and drape, emphasising the hem flounce. We also love cotton and linen for how nice and steady they are to cut and sew.
Rosalie's style lines are a beautiful opportunity for something special. This black tencel and rayon blend gives a cool witchy feel when paired with boots and fishnets, but would be absolutely stunning for a night out with some heels and a silk cami. Drapey fabrics like this tencel/rayon blend, as well as other slinky fabrics like silk or crepe de chine, may be a bit trickier to sew, but the result is so worth it!
You can grab the new pattern pieces here. Whatever vibes you end up going for, we'd love to see it! Be sure to tag us @ForgetMeNotPatterns and use the hashtags #fmnRosalie and #PeppermintRosalie. We can't wait to see what you make!
]]>
Don’t worry, Forget-me-not is still going to be all about sewing patterns! I’m just opening up more ways to support our independent patterns.
I'll start by sharing a little of my journey as a tiny independent creator in the sewing community.
If you are interested, read on! Or, check out the shiny new Patreon if you want to jump straight to supporting!
First of all, don’t worry! I’m keeping all the patterns on our website, available for purchase as normal.
If you don’t know what Patreon even is: Patreon is a website where you can sign up to support creative individuals with a subscription. In return, supporters can receive exclusive benefits from that creator.
You may be asking, “Why not just stick with the traditional way of doing things?” Well, I do have a rather multi-layered answer for you if you're curious.
So, let's start with a bit about me as a designer and my situation. When I started this business in late 2019, I had already spent 4 years in design school getting a Bachelor of Design in Fashion and had some years’ experience in bridal, custom-made, small-scale production, and alterations.
The reason I started Forget-me-not Patterns is my love for design, slow fashion, and makers (makers are my people!). As I worked on getting the business off the ground, I wore every single hat - I did everything myself. Designing, patternmaking, grading, illustrations, instructions, booklets, social media, website design, sample sewing, creating content, and customer service. I put every bit of my energy and drive into it and pushed myself as hard as possible. And I got some wins along the way - I’m really proud of the designs I have put out, and have continuously driven myself to improve all aspects of our offerings. My designs have also been featured in international magazines Tauko and Peppermint magazine. And in late 2021, I began to work with Bri, who has been helping with some content coordination and has been fabulous.
But naturally, driving so hard for so long isn’t sustainable, especially as I found that creativity took a backseat to all the other demands of the business. Unsurprisingly, I was finding myself more and more burned out. Even through the burnout though, my passion for design, patternmaking, and sewing never disappeared. It was just that I felt I wasn't getting to DO any of those things. The day-to-day grind of the business had worn me down. And through all of this, I was tossing and turning at night, worrying about money non-stop. The economic downturn hasn't been easy for many, including this business. On top of that, unpredictable, changing algorithms on social media have been making it harder and harder for small creators to get their work seen. With all of these factors, naturally it has turned into an unsustainable situation.
So I was at a point where I was considering walking away. And yet, I have had so many lovely messages from people who love the patterns and designs, so I knew there were people out there that would want me to stick around.
So I asked myself, what needs to change? And I realised I wasn’t willing to compromise on a lot of important things:
Here are some of the things I currently offer that I feel go above and beyond, and why I’m not willing to change them!
Quality: I could start releasing less complex patterns, with less details… No thank you! It’s essential for me to keep my designs unique and exciting.
Fit features: I’ve included extra bust fit options in many of my patterns (and also hip fit options in one pattern - soon to be two). It’s a lot of extra work, but I know how much it means to people! I have such a passion for well-fitted garments, I couldn’t give this up.
Extra features: I’ve been working my way through the catalogue adding projector files as a free upgrade to each pattern. I worked hard developing my projector patterns and I feel really proud being able to offer another layer of accessibility to sewers.
Size range: I’ve also been working my way through the catalogue expanding our size range as a free upgrade. It’s hard work, but I know it means a lot!
Price: I’ve seen some people say that indie patterns are too expensive. And I get it, not everyone has the budget, and I want to increase our accessibility, not decrease it, so I don’t want to raise the prices.
Booklets: I take immense pride in our comprehensively-illustrated booklets, and have had many compliments on how easy they make the sewing. I also love that they give even beginner sewers the ability to learn and become more confident.
That’s a pretty big list of things I don’t want to compromise on. I’ve seen other designers reduce and eliminate some of these things, and I think that each designer should choose what they prioritise in order to make their business sustainable. But I value these things highly, and I think many in the sewing community do too! However, it is an immense amount of work for a single person to take on. And I was finding myself creatively stifled, but also limited by finances. So that’s when I decided I needed to either change things, or close the business.
Creating space
It’s time to work more like an artist. I’m simply overflowing with things I want to share, so it’s time for me to prioritise the things that are my specialty! I’m not a big company, I’m an independent creator. But I’ve been trying to shoehorn myself into a mould, instead of making space for celebrating my own (and others’) creativity. One benefit of changing the way I run things is that I stay sane (haha). But I feel it also benefits our sewing community too, with more sewing options, and also perks if they join our exclusive community. I have so, so many designs that are impatiently waiting to be worked on and brought to life.
Funding Forget-me-not
Opening up more flexible funding is essential. Firstly, I can only keep doing this if I can make a living. Crazy, right? But often, creatives like myself are told by themselves and others that asking for support is wrong.
I found a great quote when researching these changes:
“You just have to remind yourself that what you’re doing is hard work. You’re creating something with your own flair that no one can duplicate. Being compensated for your creations is totally valid.”
I believe that, and I also know there are other people out there that believe it too! This is where the Patreon comes in - a way for people to support, while also getting extra perks (look out for more info on that very soon).
Funding will go towards keeping Forget-me-not alive, first and foremost. Then, my dream is to fund creating the full, in-depth booklet and any extra bonus materials for the patterns. I’ve always created booklets completely on my own, but now, I’ll be focusing on freeing up more creative space by paying someone!
I will only ever outsource to a trusted, qualified member of the sewing community, and pay them a fair market rate (and then make sure the booklets still meet the highest standard too, of course).
Please note, I do NOT plan to outsource any of my design, patternmaking, or grading. I am far too meticulous to do that!
There will be of course be perks for supporters.
Patreon works by letting each individual choose their level of support, with more benefits for the higher tier supporters.
Perks will include such things as early access to patterns, voting for upcoming designs, and sneak peeks. I'm also planning to offer more things as time goes on as well!
Check out the Patreon page for more information.
I want to assure my customers that this is not a quick cash grab. This is something I’ve thought long and hard about in order to keep Forget-me-not Patterns alive.
I hope you found this informative and you are looking forward to the excitement of the journey like I am. I see it evolving over time to be even better, too! I already have exciting plans in the works. I will be sharing more very soon (yay!).
You can check out our shiny new Patreon here. Look forward to some fun announcements in the next week! For those that choose to support, THANK YOU! Your support means you are keeping Forget-me-not around for a future filled with fun, detailed patterns.
-Jo ✨
]]>Helmi is the first pattern to feature our extended sizing. She's available in sizes 28-56 (32.5-60.5"/ 83cm-153cm hip). Plus she's got three bust cup options to ensure a fabulous fit!
We're celebrating Helmi with 20% off this week! Use code HELLOHELMI at checkout through midnight April 20th (Eastern Standard Time).
You can click HERE to head over to Helmi now, or keep on reading for all the details and some maker inspiration!
You may have seen the Helmi blouse before if you follow or subscribe to Tauko Magazine. Helmi debuted there last April, but we're excited to bring this design back in-house. Not only is Helmi now available in the Forget-me-not shop, we've also added some of our fan-favourite features to the pattern. The Helmi sewing pattern now comes with projector files, separate pieces for small, medium and full busts, and our signature in-depth instructions (including an all-new appendix special for stitching up sheer fabrics!)
The Helmi blouse draws from Victorian-inspired style influences that continue to resonate and re-emerge time after time. Helmi incorporates the romantic ruffles and ornamentation that define this vintage style, but they're softened enough for modern wear. The Helmi sewing pattern includes several mix-and-match features, so you can customise the level of frill you want to suit your style.
With bust darts at the front and fisheye darts at the back, the Helmi blouse is softly tailored, but still a breeze to wear. You can let out your inner romantic with the stand collar and optional ruffles at the neckline and shoulders for a look that's both sweet and a bit extra. Or, lean into cool, vintage vibes with a chic Peter Pan collar. For the front opening, you can go for a clean, straight, slit or soften the look with a more rounded keyhole. Then choose between a cute loop and button or sweet tie closure. Helmi's signature sleeves are neatly bound at either full or three-quarter length.
A wide variety of lightweight woven fabrics will sew up nicely for the Helmi blouse. Drapey fabrics like cotton lawn, viscose challis, chambray and lightweight linen are great options. Helmi also really shines in specialty fabrics like swiss dot, silk crepe and sheer fabrics like georgette or chiffon. We've even got special instructions for handling sheer fabrics in the instruction's appendix!
With Helmi's classic shape, fabric choice can really make a statement. Make a smart office blouse in a drapey crepe, or go for a bold linen for a more structured, modern take on Helmi. A sweet ditsy print can have a vintage prairie vibe, but colour-blocking the collar and cuffs can give it a modern twist. So many options!
While the features of the Helmi blouse place her in the "intermediate" category, we're confident that Helmi is suitable for patient, adventurous beginners. The Helmi blouse is an involved make, she's easier to sew up than you might think. Our instructions include a step-by-step tutorial, complete with illustrations and handy tips and beautiful, clean finishing techniques.
If it's your first time sewing a collar or cuffs, we'd recommend choosing a stable fabric like cotton lawn, chambray or poplin. For more advanced sewists, we've included some special techniques for sewing with sheer fabrics if you're ready to level up your sewing skills.
We always love seeing the creativity of the sewing community, and it's such a wonder seeing our patterns sewn up! Here are a few of our favourite Helmi blouses so far!
We can't wait to see what you make with the Helmi blouse pattern! Grab Helmi today on our store (don't forget our HELLOHELMI launch deal!).
You can share with us by tagging @forgetmenotpatterns in your makes on Instagram and using hashtag #fmnHelmi. Happy sewing!
]]>
Before I go into my experience sewing up this skirt and what I learned in the process, I should probably give you the details on the Rosalie Skirt! I designed this one in collaboration with Peppermint Magazine late last year, so it’s available as a pay-what-you-can download (check it out HERE!)
I admit, this style and length is actually quite out of my personal style comfort zone! I’ve always avoided midi-length skirts as I felt they didn’t suit me and my figure, but as I’ve grown, I just feel more and more like discarding all the persnickety little rules about “what not to wear” (I’m sure many of you remember that show - there’s a lot to unpack there!) I’m embracing being more free and letting go of silly rules.
I always have so much to say about my makes and for this one, I can say the plaid kept me humble. I’m so happy with the end result, but also for the ways sewing up this skirt challenged my dressmaking and taught me some new skills. I’m not usually one to sew something up right out the envelope - even for my own patterns! There’s always an opportunity for some personalisation. In this case, I tailored the Rosalie skirt to suit my personal preferences and I made some changes to suit my fabric.
My main change to the pattern was to swap out the elastic back for a fitted waistband and darts at the bum. I love a more tailored feel and the invisible zip at the back is perfect for me. I also omitted the in-seam pockets. I love pockets but the silhouette is quite slim without the elastic, so I didn’t want the bulk. Plus the fabric is slightly sheer and I didn’t want a partially visible pocket stealing any of the skirt’s swishy drama!
Speaking of the fabric’s opacity, I also added a lining. Instead of sewing the darts in the lining, I leave them as pleats. This reduces the strain on the lining and is faster and easier! The fabric is a Japanese deadstock cotton/linen/viscose blend called Sherbert from We Are The Fabric Store. It’s such a cute match for my cream viscose Iris tee. The colours are so fun and I love the plaid, even if it was a challenge to match!
Plaid! I mentioned that the plaid kept me humble. It was one of my more stressful cutting sessions - especially playing tetris with the bolt end cut of narrow fabric I had! There was definitely some overthinking and some head spinning, but I’m glad I made some choices ahead of time about which stripes to match.
The shapes of the Rosalie skirt meant that there were curves and angles that were going to be tricky. Additionally, the fabric’s plaid is uneven both lengthwise and crosswise. So because the stripes going horizontally on the crossgrain are not evenly spaced (so can't be flipped upside down and look the same), the fabric has to be treated with a directional layout. The vertical lines on the straight grain of the plaid also are also uneven. So matching options were limited. Here’s what I chose to prioritise and how it came together!
I cut the waistband on the bias. It makes an intentional, decisive mismatch to the grain of the skirt, rather than cutting it on-grain and knowing it can only really match at the centre (due to the darts and flared waistline of the skirt). I cut the interfacing on the straight grain and fused it to the bias waistband, so it won’t stretch out of shape.
I decided the horizontal stripes were more important to match than the verticals. The big blocks of yellow are the most eye-catching feature and I’m pleased with all my horizontals!
You may notice the plaid at my centre back zip is only matched on the horizontal stripes. I am proud they match pretty well. (And yes, unpicking was involved!) I didn’t have enough fabric to match the vertical pattern of stripes, so there are two orange stripes in a row at my centre back. I had no leeway because I bought the end of the roll of fabric so I had to play mad tetris to get it all to fit. It was a stressful cutting experience, not going to lie (I had 1.9m and the fabric was only 104cm wide)
Next time, I could cut the back on the fold to avoid a seam (for this make I didn’t have enough fabric to do so anyway). Then I could put the zip in the side seam. I do prefer zips at centre back though, rather than putting them into seams with shaping. And one more thing - with the back cut on the fold, I still wouldn’t be able to match the vertical stripes at the side seams at both sides. So there are pros and cons to that idea really!
Since the plaid isn’t even, the relationship between the centre back and side seams is a contentious area: the plaid goes in one direction from left to right, so your matching options are limited.
It occurred to me later that because this fabric’s wrong side and right side look the same, I could have cut one back piece on the wrong side of the fabric and one on the right side. That way, the vertical stripe patterns would mirror each other across centre back. You could even plan for the vertical stripes on the side seams to match to the front, by cutting the front first, and using that as a guideline for each back. But it would be a lottery where the stripes at centre back hit, so it’s possible two prominent lines would end up right next to each other and that would probably annoy me more than unmatched side seams…(see this image I made where I mirrored my skirt at the centre back). It’s food for thought for next time, anyway!
One of my side seams chevrons on the vertical stripes and the other doesn’t, due to the way the backs are cut. I’m fine about it though. Like I said, I had limitations!
At the centre back of the waistband, I picked one stripe (the purple one) and made them chevron together. I believe this fabric cannot chevron perfectly on the bias though, because it’s an “uneven plaid” (the plaid is not symmetrically mirrored). So while the purple stripes match, the other stripes don’t. That’s why I picked the purple to chevron, as it’s a visually dominant stripe.
For the skirt’s centre front, I chose to place it in between the orange and purple vertical lines. I just didn’t like the idea of a prominent thin stripe hitting the point of the flounce and being off by a few millimetres. And yes, that might be overthinking it (hint: that’s the theme here).
I matched the flounce to the skirt around the centre area but I actually wonder if it would be better to just do it like the waistband; embrace an intentional mismatch and cut the flounce pieces on the bias. It would probably change the way the flounce draped (it would probably stretch out at the side seams and need trimming), but I think it might be the best and easiest treatment!
I didn’t bother matching the side seams of the flounce. The flounce doesn’t match anything at centre back either.
To be honest, while planning this make, the longer I thought about plaid, the more my brain overheated! I’m sure there’s lots more to learn.
The good news is that I’m happy with my make, despite all the little things. Even better news is that I could feel my sewing brain getting bigger because I challenged myself. I think I have a way healthier approach to sewing these days. I encourage you to go easy on yourself. We never stop learning! Do you have any plaid tips or notes? I would love to hear them.
]]>
Now, I’ll be honest that some of these tips are not the kind of advice I like hearing. Why? It’s almost always about the prep work. I’ve found that most of the tips and techniques that have helped me level up my knit garment sewing game, don’t actually take place at my sewing machine. It may not be exciting, but it does make all the difference. So much of sewing beautiful, long-lasting knits happens in the preparatory phase. So let’s dive in!
Possibly the most important factor in matching patterns to fabric for knit projects is making sure the stretch of the fabric is compatible with the pattern. Most importantly, the amount of stretch is going to determine if the finished garment will go around your body. Many, but not all, knit patterns have negative ease and rely on the stretch in the fabric, so check finished garment measurements too.
The other important factor with stretch is how the garment goes in the body. Since many knit garments don’t have closures, knit patterns are drafted with a specific amount of stretch in order to get the garment on over the head, hands, hips, etc.
Here are a couple things to check when determining if a knit fabric is right for the pattern in question:
There are several formulas for calculating stretch percentage. This one is my favourite.
Cut a 10 cm square of fabric exclusive of the selvedge. Hold one end at your ruler and stretch the other end as far as it will go. If the fabric stretches 11 cm, the fabric has 10% stretch (12 cm = 20%, 13 cm=30%, and so on).
Horizontal stretch is usually most important for tops and dresses. Check the horizontal stretch buy placing the ribs of the jersey (those tiny lines on the right side of the fabric) perpendicular to your measuring tool. To find the vertical stretch, which is often necessary for bodysuits, leggings and trousers, simply turn your square 90 degrees so the ribs and your measuring tool are parallel.
Checking for recovery is slightly less scientific, but still very helpful in determining of a fabric is going to be a suitable match for you pattern.
Start with the same 10 cm square stretch it as far as it can go along the crossgrain. Then let go and remeasure the square. A fabric that returns sharply to 10 cm is going to be great for most patterns. If your fabric measures over 14 cm, it may be better suited to looser fitting knit patterns, rather than something drafted with negative ease where it would likely end up bagging out.
We're welcoming Kirsi with 20% off! Just use code KIRSI at checkout. Take me to Kirsi! Sale ends at midnight, September 20th (Eastern Standard Time)
If Kirsi looks a bit familiar, it's not just deju vu! She made her debut in Tauko magazine in November. We're so excited to bring her home and introduce Kirsi as part of the Forget-me-not pattern collection. In addition to being available in our shop, Kirsi will come in our sizing (complete with full bust option!) and have projector files!
the back waist, creating a round collar and flared peplum.
The optional cross-front closure and waist tie make Kirsi a chic option for bundling up, or wear Kirsi open for a graceful and interesting silhouette. Kirsi comes in two lengths. The long version floats to mid-thigh, where the shorter peplum view comes to the top of the hip.
Kirsi was designed for mid-weight knits with at least 10% horizontal stretch. Fabrics like double knit/interlock knits, waffle knit, ponte, lightweight boiled wool are great options.
It's worth noting that the wrong side of the fabric will show unless you choose to line the flounce (there's full instructions for that!) so you'll want to choose a fabric that you like the look of both the right and wrong sides.
Kirsi is a fun and easy sew. The waterfall of curves may seem tricky, but it's deceptively simple. Our fully illustrated instructions will guide you through the whole sewing process. We've even included an extra appendix with lots of info on different hem finishes so you can choose the best finish for your Kirsi!
It's always such an honor seeing our patterns made up and out in the world. Here are a few of our favorite Kirsi's so far!
In case you missed it, click here for Sylvie inspiration, fabric and supplies. If you were looking to make the round neck or sleeveless Sylvie, check out this post. And of course, here's the link for the Sylvie sewing pattern, if you haven't already snatched her up!
Let’s jump in!
Once all your pieces are cut, it’s time to transfer the markings. Generally, I like to snip my notches and use either chalk or iron-off pen for the rest of the markings.
I dipped into my daughter’s stash for these whimsical stickers to help identify the front and back of my solid fabric. You can often tell the right side of most knits by the small rows of tiny V’s, but it can be easier on the eyes to mark the wrong side of the fabric with chalk, fabric marker, washi tape, or fun stickers (just always test them out to make sure they don’t leave a residue).
Now it’s time to stabilize the shoulders. I used thin strips of knit interfacing just a scant bit wider than our 1 cm (⅜ in) seam allowance and applied it to the back shoulders and what will become the front shoulder of the yoke. You can use non-stretch interfacing, or even light cotton tape for the shoulders depending on the weight of your fabric. Make sure your dot markings on the front piece are still visible.
Additionally, I added strips to all of the edges that would get flipped and hemmed. For the back neck and sleeve edges, I cut the strips 1 cm (⅜ in) wide to match the hem allowance. I cut 2 cm (¾ in) wide strips to go around the bottom edge. This is optional, but I’ve found it to be really helpful for sewing a smooth hem, especially on slinkier fabrics.
First finish the back neck by pressing the hem toward the wrong side by 1 cm (⅜ in). Stitch the hem with either a twin needle, zigzag or coverstitch.
Next, we’re going to enclose the back shoulders within the front shoulders of the cowl. It might sound a little intimidating, but we’ll take it in bite-size pieces.
Identify the area you just interfaced. This will become your front shoulder seam. Flip it over so that the right side of the fabric is facing up.
Then place the back yoke piece over it with the right sides together. The hemmed edge of the back neckline will line up with the dart mark on the front piece. Sew here, making sure to backstitch at the dot marking, Repeat for the other side.
Now wrap the front cowl nice and snug around the back shoulder, matching the dotted marks. Stitch the seam again, now sewing through all three layers.
Turn everything right sides out to reveal your beautifully finished yoke! The shoulder seam should be neatly enclosed within the cowl.
If you used a fun sticker or washi tape to mark your fabric’s wrong side, now is the time to remove it from the cowl.
Gently press the shoulder seam from the inside of the garment. You don’t need to firmly press the edge of the cowl neckline. It should drape softly into place.
Baste the lower front edges of the cowl together within the seam allowance. This will make attaching it to the bodice a little easier.
We’re going to start with stitching the front yoke and bodice together because it requires a little more attention, then we’ll ease into connecting the back pieces.
If you haven’t already, mark the 1 cm (⅜ in) seam allowance on the wrong side of your front bodice about 5 cm (2 in) on both sides of the center V. Then clip as close to that marking without going through the seam allowance. This clip lets the seam allowance to open up instead of puckering or pulling tight.
Starting at the center V, pin the bodice and yoke with the right sides together. Work outward, matching the notches as you go.
Double check your yoke piece here since both sides of the front yoke are the right sides of the fabric but not necessarily the outside of the garment. You can use your back yoke to check which side will become the inside.
With the bodice on top and the yoke underneath, stitch just the area where you marked the seam allowance. Carefully stitch along that 5 cm (2 in) on either side of the V. Pivot at the corner, taking care to keep your fabric layers flat.
If you encounter any puckering, you most likely need to realign and clip in closer to the seam allowance. Once you’re satisfied with the center, stitch the rest of the seam out to both sides. Press the seam towards the hem.
It’s worth noting that even if you’re primarily using an overlocker, this step is easiest on a sewing machine. If you prefer to do it on an overlocker, I found it best to clip a wider angle at the center. Then begin stitching at the center and stitch outward on both sides, rather than trying to pivot at the sharp corner. Don’t forget to weave in or tie off the ends at the center.
To sew the back pieces, open out the yoke, laying it right side up. Then pin the back bodice right sides together, matching the notches. Stitch and press towards the hem.
If your fabric has a tendency to curl like my jersey did, I’d recommend trimming it close to the seam to prevent it rolling up and getting bulky. For extra security - and cuteness - I even topstitched the seam down using a twin needle. You could also use a zigzag or coverstitch if your fabric is as finicky, or if you just want to add a fun detail.
Before sewing the sleeves, I like to get ahead of the instructions a little bit. I do myself a little favor by pre-pressing the hem of the sleeve. I never regret pressing my hems while they’re still flat instead of in the round, especially on a curve like the hem of this flutter sleeve. Press toward the wrong side by 1 cm (⅜ in). And while I’m at the ironing board, I’ll go ahead and press my body hem too at 2 cm (¾ in)!
To attach the sleeve, lay the body flat with the right side up. Place the sleeve on top so the right sides are together. Match the edges and notches. Pin and stitch. Gently press the seam allowance towards the sleeve.
We’re in the home stretch! Place the front and back sides right sides together. The side seam and underarm seam will be sewn in one go.
Pin the side seams and underarm seam, matching the notches at the waist and sleeve intersection. Starting at the hem, sew right on through to the end of the sleeve, making sure to pivot at the underarm seam.
Since we pre-pressed our hems, finishing is a breeze! Using a twin needle, zigzag or coverstitch hem up the sleeve and body.
Give your Sylvie one last press and she’s done!
Here’s my finished Sylvie paired with my elastic Ella hack.
The flutter sleeve and cowl neck are such a chic way to level up a basic knit top!
Thanks so much for joining our Sylvie Sew-along! We hope you’ve been inspired and maybe even learned something new!
Let us know if you have any questions. We love to help you grow in your sewing practice. Until next time, happy sewing!
]]>After your pieces are all cut out, transfer all pattern markings. I like to snip my notches and use either chalk or iron-off pen for the rest of the markings. Additionally, if your fabric is like mine, where it may be hard to tell which side is which, you can use chalk, washi tape or stickers to mark the wrong side of the fabric. I went for some whimsical butterflies. You can often tell the right side of most knits by the small rows of tiny V’s.
Next, I added thin strips of knit interfacing to the back shoulders. You can use non-stretch interfacing, or even light cotton tape for the shoulders depending on the weight of your fabric. This knit interfacing was perfect for my light weight, slinky jersey knit.
I also added strips to all of the edges that would get flipped and hemmed. For the shoulder edges, I cut the interfacing 1 cm (⅜ in) wide to match the hem allowance. I cut 2 cm (¾ in) wide strips to go around the bottom edge. This is optional, but I’ve found it to be really helpful for sewing a smooth hem.
While I’m here at my iron, I like to jump ahead of the instructions a little to prep my bands and hems. For the bands, simply fold the two armbands and the neckband in half lengthwise and give it a good press.
I always thank myself later for pre-pressing my hems up while everything is flat. It’s faster and easier than pressing in the round when everything is sewn up.
If you pre-pressed your hem, unfold it and line up the sides of the bodice at the top, bottom and waist notch. Pin and sew with the right sides together. Press the seam allowance towards the back on both sides.
Because my fabric liked to curl, I found my seam allowances were getting quite bulky. To save myself future annoyance and potential discomfort, I trimmed all the seam allowances to about 6 mm (¼ in). It’s likely not necessary on many fabrics (or if you’re using an overlocker), but I’m really glad I took that extra step because my top has washed and worn beautifully without the extra bulk of a curled-up seam allowance.
Next, grab your pressed and folded armbands. Working from the outside of the bodice, match the front and center notches, and pin in place. Depending on the stretch of your fabric, you may need to stretch the band to get it evenly distributed. Pin and stitch, sewing through all three layers.
Bringing the band upwards, turn the seam allowance to the inside and gently press.
Here my seam allowance was fighting to roll to the outside. To smooth it out, I topstitched the seam allowance and trimmed it down on the inside. For my finicky fabric this extra step made a huge difference to make it look cleaner and more polished, but it may not be necessary for all fabrics. I used a zigzag stitch, but a twin needle or coverstitch would work wonderfully as well.
If you pre-pressed the edge, unfold it. Pin the front and back yokes together at the shoulders with the right sides together. While we reinforced the shoulders with interfacing, I like to be extra careful to not stretch the shoulders by being mindful of directional sewing. I begin stitching at the outside of the shoulder and sew in towards the neckline, and repeat on the other side.
Press the seam toward the back and trim if necessary.
Open the yoke so it’s lying on the right side. Refold or press the outside edge in by 1 cm (⅜ in). Working from the outside, hem the edge using a zigzag stitch, twin needle or coverstitch.
Set your yoke aside for a moment and take your bodice. Press (or refold if you pre-pressed) the bottom edge by 2 cm (¾ in) towards the wrong side. Hem the edge with your preferred finishing stretch stitch.
If you haven’t already, fold the neckband lengthwise and press. Next open the fold and match the short edges with the right sides together. Stitch to create a loop and press the seam allowance open.
Working from the right side of the yoke, match the neckband seam to the right shoulder (as you’d wear it) as well as the notches at the center front, center back and left shoulder. Pin in place.
Depending on the stretch of your fabric, you may want to add more pins to make sure your neckband is evenly distributed. I’ve found I like using 8 pins for sewing a round neckline. Once my four main pins are placed, I find the midpoint of both the band and the neckline between each pin.
Once everything is pinned, sew through all three layers, gently stretching the neckband to fit the neckline. Ideally you’ll only stretch the neckband to fit and not pull too much on the garment itself. I like to sew with the neckband on top so I can better control the stretch of the neckband.
Once the neckband is inserted, turn the band up and the seam allowance to the inside. Gently press the seam allowance down toward the body of the garment. Optionally, you can topstitch seam allowance down. In my case it was really helpful to keep that seam allowance from rolling up. Just like on the armband, I used a zigzag stitch right under the seam.
I love when the last step in a pattern brings it all together. I feel like it’s extra triumphant finishing a project by seaming up two completed parts.
First off, if you haven’t already, draw your 1 cm seam allowance at the front V of the bodice. Then snip right into that center V but not all the way through that marked seam allowance.
Since sewing the front yoke with the V requires a little more care, I chose to tackle it first.
There are a couple ways to bring the yoke and bodice together. One way is to slip the bodice through the neck hole of the yoke with the bodice right side out and the yoke inside out - like how you’d attach a skirt and bodice together. From here you can stitch the back yoke and bodice together.
To break it down into smaller bits, I chose to lay the bodice face-up and begin pinning at the center Vs and work outward.
Starting at the center with the body face up and the yoke underneath, carefully stitch along the marked seam allowance about 5 cm (2 inches) on either side of the V. Pivot at the corner, being careful to keep your fabric layers flat. If you encounter any puckering, you most likely need to realign and clip in closer to the seam allowance. Once you’re satisfied with the center, stitch the rest of the seam on the side.
It’s worth noting that even if you’re primarily using an overlocker, this step is easiest on a sewing machine. If you prefer to do it on an overlocker, I found it best to make your clip extra wide and start at the center and stitch outward on both sides, rather than trying to pivot at the sharp corner. Don’t forget to weave in or tie off the ends at the center.
To stitch up the back, I turned everything inside out, matched the notches and stitched the bodice and yoke together with the right sides together.
Press the yoke seams down towards the hem. Optionally, you can secure the seam allowance by stitching in the ditch of the underarm band, or do a quick catch stitch by hand.
Give your Sylvie a final press and you’re done!
Ta-da! Here’s how mine turned out! I’ve paired it here with my Ella skirt, but I’ve found this sleeveless version to be a wardrobe staple that I reach for weekly!
Next time, we’ll be finishing up the Sylvie sew-along with a step by step stitch-up of the flutter sleeved Sylvie with the feature cowl neck. Check out the next blog post here.
Today, we’re going to take in some Sylvie inspiration, check out fabric options and gather our supplies!
If you haven’t got your Sylvie top yet, head HERE to snap her up!
With many mix and match features, the Sylvie sewing pattern is so versatile. She can make for an elegant going out top or an easy-going gym tank. Or use the V-style lines of the yoke to make a colour-blocked statement piece!
Since the pattern offers so many possibilities, different types of fabric really influence the final look. Let’s take a closer look at the Sylvie sample as well as some community makes for inspiration!
Our first sample made in a navy viscose jersey showcases the drape of the flutter sleeve and the cowl neck features.
Jo made the lilac sleeveless, cowl neck version in a merino wool jersey. Merino jersey drapes beautifully, but is not quite as fluid as viscose jersey. We love merino wool because it can keep you warm in the cold or cool when it’s hot, making this Sylvie a year-round wardrobe piece.
Since we launched Sylvie last month, we’ve seen so many incredible versions! Let’s have a look at some of our favourites.
Amelia (@sewamelia) made this black lace stunner! The stretch lace brings a whole new level of glam to this beautiful navy top.
Marja’s (@m3nieme) abstract floral print pairs beautifully with the cowl neck and flutter sleeves. So chic!
Angela (@autumnyarn) wanted a top that she wear on a hike or dress up for a coffee date. Her cotton-lycra Sylvie is as cute as it is versatile!
We love Diana’s (@eloise.ezra) dotty mesh and floral combination. Sylvie is so great for colourblocking!
Sylvie is designed for light to medium weight knit fabrics with at least 15% percent horizontal stretch. Fabrics like cotton jersey, viscose/rayon jersey, and merino jersey are all great options. Fabrics like sweater knits, interlock or French terry would also work, but would have a bit more structure and volume, especially on the flutter sleeve and cowl neck features.
In thinking about the Sylvie tops I was wanting to sew, I had to do a little shopping. I thought I’d bring you along the journey!
I knew I was looking for a couple of solids. I love a print, but I know my wardrobe is lacking in solid tops that I can pair with my printed skirts (especially my cute Ella skirts!) I also decided that I wanted one sleeveless version that I could reach for as an everyday staple in the summer and that I could use as a layering piece in the winter. For my second version, I was looking to make something a bit more sophisticated with the flutter sleeve and cowl neck features. Here are a few of the options I considered:
I ended up going with a bamboo jersey from Textielstad in “raf blue”as my everyday sleeveless top and this sweet periwinkle “light blue” for my flutter sleeve version. I love this fabric so much!
The composition is 68% bamboo, 28% cotton and 4% elastane. Viscose, tencel and bamboo jerseys are often very fluid and drapey, so I love that this one has some cotton in it for a little extra body and stability. It was not without its sewing challenges though! I’ll chat about it when we get into the construction and offer some tips. But totally worth it! It feels so beautiful against the skin, and it washes and wears so nicely.
With fabric chosen and pattern printed, we’re almost ready to get started. Let’s gather up our sewing supplies!
Here’s what we’ll need for sewing Sylvie:
Before I leave you to go cut out your Sylvie pieces, here are a few basic tips for sewing knits to keep in mind.
We’ll meet back here ready to sew up our Sylvie tops! We’re starting off with a sleeveless round neck and then we’ll move on to sewing the flutter sleeved cowl neck version. Can’t wait to share it with you!
The rest of the sew-along can be found here:
Sylvie sew-along part 2: Constructing the sleeveless round neck view.
We're so excited to bring you our newest sewing pattern - the Sylvie knit top! Sylvie is a semi-fitted top made for knit fabrics and features unique interchangeable yokes as well as two sleeve options. The Sylvie sewing pattern comes in sizes 28-52 (32.5"-56.5").
Here we'll chat all the details as well as share some of the fab makes from our tester team! Or simply head over and grab Sylvie for 20% off using code SYLVIE!
Sylvie is a versatile work to weekend semi-fitted top with some lovely features. With her unique yoke style lines, Sylvie is a creative playground for combining different colours and textures, as well as a great opportunity for some scrapbusting! The front yoke has a gentle ‘V’ shape, while the back is curved.
Explore elegant, drapey design features with the cowl neck and flutter sleeve options. Or go for a sportier Sylvie with the sleeveless view and the versatile round neckline. Colourblock the yoke for a look that is completely your own!
For the Sylvie you'll want to look for light to medium knit fabrics with at least 15% horizontal stretch and good drape. Fabrics like cotton jersey, viscose/rayon jersey, merino jersey, and silk jersey are all great options.
The Sylvie top is thoroughly designed, with separate armscyes for the sleeved and sleeveless views, for an accurate fit. And to make your sewing life easier, the intstructions also feature separate construction methods for each sleeve view.
Whether you opt for the classic banded round neck or stitch up the satisfying cowl neck, our expert intructions will guide you through. Sylvie is a great pattern to elevate your knit sewing!
Stay tuned for the full Sylvie Sew Along coming this month! Bri will be sewing up both version and including some extra tips and tricks along the way!
Take 20% off with code SYLVIE through midnight August 12 (EST).
Marja utitlized her scrap stash to make this lovely colourblocked version. We love this colour combo!
We love the knit crepe Diana used for her Sylvie. The texture of the fabric gave some sweet volume to the sleeves. So crisp!
This tutorial will walk you through one of my favourite types of pockets. This pocket is used on our Valerie raglan dress and the Natalie gored skirt, and creates a lovely diagonal line that makes an elegant style feature.
You might be tempted to cut your fusing tape to the pocket slash length, based on the paper pattern, but beware. This is one area where the bias can be tricky. For most fabrics, you will be fine doing that. So, if your fabric is cooperative, you can skip the Bias tip section! But if your fabric is drapey and fluid and stretches a lot on the bias, read on for a little tip.
Bias tip: You might find that your fabric grows on the bias as soon as you cut your pieces out! In the past, I've cut my fusing to length based on the paper pattern and then eaaaased all that bias growth into the tape, shrinking it along that edge by manipulating by hand, and then fusing it in place to permanently shrink it back to shape. The problem with doing that is that the rest of the skirt will still grow on the bias, leaving the pocket looking overly taut. So it's best to actually let those super-drapey fabric grow just that little bit before you apply the fusing tape. I hope that makes sense! This is just one of those nuances of sewing you learn as you sew with different fabrics. Now, if you notice that tautness to the pocket when you try your garment on, don't fret. You can always open up the middle section of the slash pocket seam. Even if your whole garment is complete, it's still very accessible! Simply unpick the centre of the slash, cut the fusing, and let the fabric grow on the bias a little (I let it grow 1cm (3/8")), to reduce that tautness. I have done this before and it works well. Once the tautness is released, I simply fuse a little bit more interfacing in the gap, and close everything back up.
Okay, now back to the pocket fun!
So our first step is to simply fuse the strips of interfacing onto the wrong side of each pocket opening. Make sure that when stitched, the seam will go through the fusing. That way, the stitches will secure the fusing into the seam so it stays put!
Tip: I always cover my tape with a press cloth before I fuse it with the iron. You never know when you might accidentally put the tape glue-side up and get a sticky mess all over your iron! (Yes, this HAS happened to me).
Place the skirt right side up. Place your pocket facing right sides together with the skirt. The diagonal edges should match perfectly. If your fabric is less stable, it's possible that your pocket facing will have stretched out a little along that bias edge, causing it to grow and become longer than your interfaced skirt. It's okay if it's stretched a little, but if your bias edge has stretched a lot (2.5cm or 1"), refer to the bias tip in the previous step.
Sewing tip: Whenever possible, I sew with the interfaced layer on *top*. This is a subtle yet impactful handling tip! The layer underneath is not interfaced, which makes it more prone to stretching out during sewing, by being pushed by the presser foot. By having it underneath, the feed dogs pull this less-stable fabric along, keeping the layers balanced.
Here's what it looks like from the wrong side of the skirt after the first line of stitching (below). You can see the stitching goes through the tape. Nice and secure!
Understitching is a wonderful technique! This line of stitching will roll the pocket facing toward the inside of the skirt.
Smooth the pocket bag away from the body of the skirt, and smooth all the seam allowances towards the pocket facing. Here's what that looks like from the wrong side.
Now, flip your work over to the right side. We will be stitching on the *pocket* side of the seam. Sew a line of stitching 1mm (1/16") away from the seam. This line of stitching goes through all layers of the seam allowance. As you sew, hold the fabric taut from either side, so that the seam is held nice and flat, and keep the seam allowances pressed in the direction of the pocket facing.
This is what the understitching looks like from the right side (see picture below). Your stitching will not show on the outside of the garment (so don't worry if you went a little wonky... no one will know!)
Understitching tip: I never bother pressing the seam I'm about to understitch. I know that I'll be carefully smoothing the seam open as I sew, so no need to press ahead of time. By all means, press before understitching if you feel that makes your sewing easier, though!
Now we can create the pocket! Place the pocket bag piece right sides together with the pocket facing (see below).
Their outer edges match perfectly, which makes life easy. This is a simple step. Just sew around the rounded edges of the pocket bag. Just be careful you only sew through the pocket layers; ignore the skirt and don't catch it into your seam! The other thing is to make sure you don't get carried away and sew around all edges of the pocket. Just sew the rounded edge, leaving the top and straight edge of the pocket open.
Then, you can finish the edges of the pocket along the seam that you just stitched. In this case I have overlocked (serged) the edges. Finish the two layers together in one pass.
Here's what the skirt looks like with the pockets assembled to this point:
And here's another picture showing what the skirt looks like with one of the pockets opened up (below). Note that the top and side edges of the pocket are not attached to each other.
Now is the exciting part where it all comes together! Fold the pocket to the wrong side of the skirt, so that the pocket facing is wrong sides together with the skirt, and the pocket bag will peek out the top to finish the outline of the skirt! The top and side edges of the pockets will align to the waistline of the skirt and the side seam of the skirt. Time to press it and make it all crisp and beautiful!
When you press it, let the understitched seam roll to the inside as it will naturally want to do.
Below is a picture to compare an unpressed pocket to the pressed pocket (I think you can figure out which is which!).
The final step has been done on the pressed side: Simply secure those waistline and side seam edges with a line of stitching to keep it all sitting neatly in place. Stitch within the seam allowance, so that these stitches don't have to be unpicked later.
Note: For the Valerie dress, you can ignore the notch on the waistline, as this is for matching to the bodice's bust dart, not anything to do with the pocket.
And that's it! This is a really fun and satisfying pocket style to sew! I hope you found this tutorial helpful. As always, write any questions in the comments...and enjoy your sewing!
We're so excited to announce our newest pattern, the Natalie skirt! The Natalie skirt sewing pattern is a classic button-front skirt featuring gored style lines, slash pockets and extra features to mix and match for a perfectly unique creation.
Keep reading, or snatch up the Natalie gored skirt sewing pattern now! She's even 20% off this week if you use code NATALIE at checkout.
With many customizable features, the Natalie button-front skirt is a wardrobe essential that's never boring! Natalie's sweet shape may seem simple, but there's several features and views to play around with. Choose between a straighter A-line silhouette or go for the fuller flared view. The optional raised waistband features an eye-catching angled seam the echoes the sleek diagonal of the slash pockets. Little details like the optional tie belt and belt loops take this skirt pattern up a notch.
While the Natalie skirt is a sewing pattern made for woven fabrics, different woven fabrics will result in deliciously different garments. We love how a drapey fabrics like tencel, silk and viscose give Natalie a swishy, floaty feel. More structured fabrics will emphasize the lines of the Natalie skirt, making the A-line appear straighter and the flared view even fuller.
This A-line Natalie paired the straighter skirt and straight waistband with a lush cotton velveteen and snaps (domes) for a cute and casual look.
I’ve had my eye on the Ella Skirt sewing pattern ever since it was released. I love that it’s a gathered skirt with just a little bit extra. The balanced A-line shape, the subtle high-low hem and of course that sweet ruffle tier come together to make up the perfect skirt.
One little thing held me back though. The zip. While I’m confident in sewing an invisible zip, I pretty much avoid wearing them. Between working from home, chasing after a kiddo and managing a chronic illness, my life and my clothing require a bit more flexibility.
Now I tried a few elastic waist skirt patterns over the years and was always left a bit disappointed. So finally, I came back to the Ella Skirt and decided to hack the waistband to be more suitable and sustainable for my life and my body. Now I have two lovely skirts that are both beautiful and comfortable to wear!
I couldn’t decide if I wanted just an easy breezy fully elasticates skirt or a business in the front party in the back half-elasticated skirt. So I made both! I couldn’t be happier!
I know I’ll be twirling in my blue knee length prairie chic floral fully elasticated skirt all through the spring and summer. I love how it pairs so sweetly with my cream Vera Top. For my half-elasticated Ella, I went for the shorter length and used a dark floral so I could layer it up with tights and boots in the colder months. I love how there are so many colors in the print to match with. I've paired it with my favorite green Iris Pleated Tee and I love the combination!
I love them both so much, but if I had to pick a favorite, I’d have to pick the dark, short Ella. The colors in the print remind me of the garden in Alice in Wonderland and I’m so proud of the pretty flat front waistband!
Since I loved my elasticated Ellas so much, I wanted to share a bit how I made them and how you can turn any gathered skirt into one with an elastic waist. I’ll start with the fully elasticated waist since it’s a little more straight forward, and then walk you through how to achieve the flat-front elastic-back.
You’ll need the following supplies:
To begin, we need to make new waistband pattern pieces. Our new waistband needs to be long enough to pull over the hips and wide enough to act as a channel for the elastic to be fed through. To find these dimensions you’ll need your skirt pattern piece to determine the length and your elastic to determine the width.
The length is easy. Simply measure the very top edge of your skirt piece. Take care to account for any curves.
For the width, start with the width of your elastic then add seam allowance and 0.5-0.75cm (⅛-½”) wiggle room for the elastic. For me, my elastic was 3cm (1 ¼), my seam allowance 1cm (⅜”) and I added 0.75 (¼”) extra so my sum was 4.75cm (1 ⅞”). Next double your sum because we’re going to fold the piece in half to create the waistband. My waistband width was 9.5cm (3 ¾”).
To find the length of the elastic, I like to use the waist measurement minus 5cm (2”) rule and then adjust from there. Elastic can vary so much, so it’s important to test out how it feels once it’s in the waistband.
Cut out the new waistband pieces along with the rest of the skirt body pieces. Since we’re using a thick waistband elastic, there’s no need to interface the waistband. Sew the skirt body according to the pattern instructions.
It’s not necessary to finish the edges since all the raw edges will be enclosed. I chose to overlock my waistband pieces so they’d be easier to handle since I was using a viscose that frayed quite a bit.
I always find it helpful to prepress my waistband pieces while they’re flat instead of trying to measure and press after it’s attached to the skirt. First press the waistband pieces in half lengthwise. Then turn one edge under by 1cm (⅜”).
Next sew the two back pieces together and press open. Then stitch the front and back waistbands together. Press seams open.
Matching the side and center back seams, pin the flat edges of the waistband to the skirt body right sides together. Stitch using a 1cm (⅜”) seam allowance.
Press the seam open and then up towards the waistband. I find it really helpful to topstitch the seam allowance to the waistband. It’s not necessary, but it helps keep everything out of the way when inserting the elastic.
Fold the waistband down to the inside of the skirt. Bring the folded edge just past the stitching line and pin from the outside. Working from the outside of the skirt, stitch in the ditch between the skirt and waistband being careful to catch the inside waistband. Leave a 5cm (2”) gap to thread the elastic through.
Using a safety pin or bodkin, thread the elastic through the channel you’ve just created. It’s helpful to pin the end of the elastic to the garment to keep it from slipping into the channel while you’re threading the other end through. Make sure that there aren’t any twists or kinks before overlapping the elastic by 2.5cm (1”) and stitching closed.
Turning your skirt back to the outside, close the gap by stitching in the ditch. Pull the waistband all the way to distribute the elastic and gathers. Vertically stitch in the ditch at the waistband side seams to keep the elastic from twisting in the future.
Hem up your skirt and give a twirl!
For my second Elasticated Ella, I opted for a flat front waistband with an elastic back. I really love this style. It’s still super comfortable but looks a bit more elevated.
Again we’ll start by making the waistband pattern pieces. For the front, measure the front part of your waist. I found it helpful to wear a close-fitting tee and measure side seam to side seam. Divide this measurement in half and add 1cm (⅜”) seam allowance.
For the width, start with the width of your elastic then add seam allowance and 0.5-0.75cm (⅛-½”) wiggle room for the elastic. For me, my elastic was 3cm, my seam allowance 1cm (⅜”) and I added 0.75 (¼”) extra so my sum was 4.75cm (1 ⅞”). Next double your sum because we’re going to fold the piece in half lengthwise to create the waistband. My waistband width was 9.5cm (3 ¾”).
The front waistband will get interfaced, but not the back waistband.
The back waistband length is just measuring the top of the skirt pattern piece. Just make sure you account for the curve by either pivoting your measuring tape or using something more flexible like string to follow the curve.
After cutting pattern pieces, interface your front waistband piece. Then press your waistband pieces in half lengthwise and then press one side up by 1cm (⅜”).
It’s not necessary to finish the edges since all the raw edges will be enclosed. I chose to overlock my waistband pieces so they’d be easier to work with since my viscose was very prone to fraying. I also used a thin strip of interfacing near the edges to strengthen the seam - it’s not necessary, but can provide more stability to drapey fabrics.
Stitch the center back waistband together and then the back waistband to the front waistband. Press seams open and repress edge and center folds.
Assemble the skirt body as instructed. Sew two rows of gathering stitches on the front skirt only. Mark the center front of the skirt and waistband.
With right sides together, pin the waistband to the back of the skirt, matching the center back and side seams. With the back waistband pinned in place, gently pull on the gathering threads until the top of the skirt matches the length of the waistband. Distribute gatherers evenly. Pin and stitch.
Press the seam allowance open and then up towards the waistband. Fold the waistband to the inside of the skirt. Bring the folded edge of the waistband just past the stitch line. Pin in place from the outside.
Working from the outside, carefully stitch in the ditch between the skirt and waistband, catching the inside of the waistband. Leave two 5cm (2”) gaps on the front skirt just past the side seams. This is where you’ll thread the elastic through and secure it.
To find the length of elastic you’ll need, measure your back waist approximately side seam to seam. Then subtract 5cm (2”). Ultimately, every elastic behaves differently, so you’ll want to try it first and make adjustments.
Use a safety pin or bodkin to thread your elastic through the two gaps. Pin and baste the elastic by stitching in the ditch of the waistband side seam. This is the time to try on the skirt and make sure the elastic fits well. I’d even recommend wearing it around for a little while to see how the elastic stretches and recovers.
Once the elastic is at the right length, stitch the side seam waistband ditches and close the gaps by stitching in the ditch between the waistband and the skirt.
The last step is optional, but I find it really elevates the finish. And that is to stretch the elastic and sew two or more rows of topstitching around the elastic. This helps to organize the gathers and maintain a closer fit across the back. I found this the trickiest part of the whole process, so definitely take your time here.
Attach your ruffle if you’re making the Ella skirt. Give it a hem and you’re done!
If you need a bit more flexibility in your life, I hope you’ll give this Ella elastic hack a try. Or try it on any other gathered skirt pattern. I’m so glad I finally did. The Ella pattern has such a beautiful shape and the proportions are just right for my body. And now the waist is just right too! Thanks so much for reading and happy sewing!
Bri (she/they) is a disabled, queer maker and the content coordinator here at Forget-me-not Patterns. She can be found on Instagram and YouTube at @BriMichelleMade.
I’m calling this my Always-Everything Dress because it’s a dress I can always reach for for (just about) every occasion. I used the Valerie Raglan dress sewing pattern to create a wardrobe workhorse that really feels like me. And - spoiler alert - I'm in love!
Since I’m so excited about my new Valerie dress, I thought I’d take you along my making journey! I’ll chat a bit about what drew me to the pattern, my fabric choice and what my sewing experience was like. Read on to learn all about how I made the Valerie Raglan dress sewing pattern and it became one of my most loved pieces.
I’ll admit that I've never been a minimalist, but I do try to be mindful about my clothing and I work to create a multifunctional and cohesive wardrobe. With that in mind, I really wanted to make a garment that could work for a variety of situations. Something that would make me feel confident and present, ready to show up for whatever’s on the agenda. I’m so excited to have made the ultimate trans-seasonal, multifunctional Always-Everything Dress!
I love this dress so much. It’s been so fun to play with styling it up and down as well as layering it for different seasons. I love pairing it with heels for a dressier occasion or with sneakers for everyday. Between the style lines, the print and the little modifications I made, this dress really feels like a reflection of me. I put it on and instantly feel more confident - more like myself. I’m always amazed how I can feel so empowered and ground by sewing my own clothes.
I love the Valerie Raglan sewing pattern both for the stylistic elements, but also for practical reasons. I was so excited when I learned it was being rereleased with expanded sizing, bust cup options and two new sleeves. I chose the three-quarter length sleeve and added a cheeky little hack to adapt it to my lifestyle.
Aesthetically, I love the clean lines of the design. It’s chic and tailored, but the raglan sleeves and slash pockets give it a sporty vibe, which I love. It’s feminine and fun without being too romantic for my taste. Valerie hits that perfect balance point of cute and cool, so I knew it was the right pattern for my Always-Everything Dress.
The other thing that made me choose the Valerie pattern is that I know I’m always gonna have a great sewing experience when I choose a pattern from the Forget-me-not catalog. I know I’m in good hands when it comes to the drafting, and the instructions will hold my hand the whole time. Plus, the Valerie sewing pattern has some features that make it easier to fit to my body.
Typically for a fitted, woven bodice, I have to make adjustments for my narrow shoulders, broad back and full bust. I always love a raglan sleeve since it generally relieves my narrow shoulder and broad back issues without having to make pattern adjustments. The shoulder dart on the raglan sleeve provides just the right amount of shaping. And with the new full bust option for the Valerie bodice, I didn’t have to do a full bust adjustment either!
Another factor that always plays a part in my pattern choice is pockets. I’m really picky and I have to say these are some of my favorite pockets on any dress pattern ever. They’re so nice and roomy. Perfect for my phone or wallet or even extra snacks! Slash pockets are almost always my pocket of choice, but these ones are even better because of how the diagonal lines echo those in the raglan sleeve. I love the thoughtfulness of the design.
I knew Valerie would be the perfect pattern for my Always-Everything Dress, so when it came to choosing a fabric, I was keeping that versatility in mind. I chose a black floral viscose challis from my fabric stash. I’ve had it for years and have been waiting for the right project to use it.
I love how a light floral on a black background can work through multiple seasons. Normally, I don’t wear black in the warmer months, but I feel like the floral warms it up a bit. Conversely, I feel like the black background kind of grounds the floral print, giving it a moodier edge, which I love for the winter. Paired with the three-quarter sleeve view, it’s a perfect piece for wearing all year-round.
While I love the colors, print and floatiness of the final garment, sewing this fabric wasn’t all that fun. I anticipated some of the stretching and warping that viscose is prone to, and was luckily able to get ahead of some of it. In addition to interfacing the center back and pocket edges, per the instructions, I also added thin strips of interfacing to each of the raglan seams (sleeves, bodice front and back) as well as the neckline before staystitching.
Given how much the side seams stretched when I sewed them, I can only imagine how much the bias-cut raglan seams would have stretched, possibly resulting in a sad droopy bodice. But! Thanks to the interfacing, my raglan seams were spared. Still, the light slippery fabric was annoying to work with - pins wouldn’t stay put, it shifted and stretched. Even though I left my dress to hang overnight before leveling and hemming it, I still got some stretching through the skirt creating an almost high-low hem. I’ll call it a design choice!
Despite my viscose struggles, I really enjoyed the sewing process. While the raglan sleeve and full bust bodice options saved me a lot of work with fitting, I still made a couple of alterations to the pattern to dial in the fit.
Firstly I added 2.5cm to the length of the skirt. I’m exactly the height the pattern is drafted for, but I knew I wanted the dress to hit the top of my knee rather than “above the knee.” Super easy, I just added the length to the hem so as not to mess with the angle of the skirt.
My second adjustment was to the waist. My waist circumference puts me between size 46 and 48, while my bust is a size 44 and my hips are a 42. Now I could have graded between sizes or sized up, but instead I decided to make a really simple adjustment that gave me a great fit. Like many folks my size, more of my waist measurement is concentrated at the front of my body where my belly protrudes out. So sizing up or grading out would likely have been more difficult and wouldn’t have addressed the area where I really need the extra space.
I measured my waist sitting down to determine how much ease I’d want and used that measurement to determine how much I would need to increase the waistline. I ended up adding 4cm total to the front waistline by reducing the darts and adding width to the center front of the skirt. It fits me so well. I have all the room I need to breathe and sit and move without extra bulk where I don’t need it.
When I attached the skirt, I really liked where the waist was hitting me, but I knew that the weight of the skirt would pull and stretch it downward. I unpicked it and shortened the bodice by 1.5cm. I’m so glad I did, because after hanging overnight, the bodice had indeed stretched a bit before settling right at my natural waist. So now it’s just right!
The last and most fun modification I made was to the sleeve. Hello elastic! While I love the beautiful, clean finish of the bound edge, elastic is a more practical choice for me. It’s a super simple hack that puts this dress as an everyday option rather than a once-in-a-while wear. Between the messiness of mom-life and my hypersensitivity, it really helps me when my sleeves are tucked up and out the way. All I did was turn up the sleeve hem by 0.5cm and then another 1.5cm and hemmed it, leaving a small gap to thread my 1cm wide elastic through. Voila!
I’m so excited about my Always-Everything Dress. You'll be seeing me wear it to family dinner, school pick-up, the grocery store, the theatre - you name it! I even made a little video of how I can dress it up and down! Check it out here!
I love this dress, but more importantly, I love me in this dress. I often think about the power of dressing ourselves and how it can affect so much of how we think and feel about ourselves. I’m so grateful that sewing has allowed me to make clothing like this sweet Always-Everything Valerie Dress that not only fits my body, but makes me feel at home with myself and more ready to show up in my world.
Thanks for reading and happy sewing.
Bri (she/they) is a disabled, queer maker and the content coordinator here at Forget-me-not Patterns. She can be found on Instagram and YouTube at @BriMichelleMade.
]]>If you've already purchased Valerie, there's a happy surprise waiting for you in your inbox. And if you're meeting the Valerie sewing pattern for the first time be sure to use code VALERIE at checkout for 20% off this week!
Keep reading for all the update details, or head straight over to the shop to snatch up Valerie!
We're so excited to welcome Valerie into our extended sizing! Valerie not only comes in sizes 28-52 bringing it up to a 56.5" hip, but she now comes with small, medium and full bust options to give you an even better fit! For more sizing info, check out our sizing page HERE.
In addition to new sizing, Valerie now has four sleeve options so you can have a Valerie for every season and any occasion! We love the flounce and new short sleeve for warmer weather. The new three-quarter sleeve features a lovely bound finish, which is perfect for transitional seasons. The original long sleeve with the cuff and bound placket is a great chance to take your skills to the next level. Plus it makes for a knockout wardrobe piece for the cooler months!
We're so excited to announce this is our first pattern to include projector files! We love that projector files eliminate some paper waste and save some time in the sewing process!
This update also includes some minor changes to the pattern. It includess shortening the waist by 1/4" (6mm) across all sizes, a refined sizing grade through the sleeve length and a little extra contouring through the side seams to tailor the fit even more. We even updated the instructions to provide the most clarity for your sewing experience!
Our in-depth instructions are built to hold your hand from first snip to final stitch. While features like the contoured raglan sleeve, slash pockets and fitted bodice place Valerie in the intermediate category, we're confident that our fully-illustrated instructions can guide an even adventurous beginner through to making something beautiful.
We've already got several of supplemental tutorials like how to how to sew a bound placket and how to install an invisible zip. Keep your eyes out for more tutorials coming soon.
Forget-me-not Patterns is all about timeless shapes and delightful details and the Valerie Raglan Dress sewing pattern is no exception. Valerie's versatility has grown even more with the new sleeve options included in this update. We love how the clean raglan lines bring something unique to a sweet A-line dress. Plus, it's got pockets!
We love imagining all the different woven fabrics to pair with the Valerie patterns and all the places to wear her - a bright satin for a cocktail party, or a soft cotton gingham for a country picnic, a cool geometric crepe for the office, a sweet floral viscose for breezy weekends. The possibilities are endless!
We're celebrating Valerie's return with 20% off until midnight March 1st (Eastern Time)! Just use the code VALERIE at checkout. Click HERE to get your Valerie Raglan Dress. We can't wait to see what you make!
]]>Read on, or go check out the pattern on our shop here. Psst - she's 20% off for launch week with code VIOLA.
Viola is a top designed for knit fabrics. The front features an asymmetric neckline, with draped folds that radiate from the shoulder and flow around the body. Unique dart tucks, also known as release tucks, are used to create the design and incorporate shaping for the bust into the draped style lines.
While fitted at the shoulders and hem, the bust and waist float away from the body. The sleeves can be made at three-quarter length, full length, or just past the wrist. Viola features an asymmetrical neckline and an optional collar. Both neckline views make make clever use of turnback facings for the neckline, giving a clean finish. No neckband needed!
The Viola Top may look intricate and complicated, but she's surprisingly quick and straight-forward to sew. With our fully illustrated instructions and supplemental sew along video you'll master the folds and take your knit garments to a new level! So many of our testers expressed amazement at how easy it was to sew, even though they were intimidated at first.
As well as the draped front, it's the little details that excite us, like the gentle 'V' to the back of the neck that works with both the collarless and collar view.
Choose a fluid knit fabric like viscose or merino jersey for a soft, romantic Viola Top. Or go for a beautifully bold, architectural look that emphasizes the style lines by using a a knit with more body like cotton jersey or interlock. Tip: If you're new to knits or simply want an easier sew, pick a stable fabric.
This blue viscose-spandex mix has a bit of body that beautifully shows off the style lines.
While the clever folds are unique and striking, underneath these lovely details, Viola is just as comfy as your basic tee. The Voila Top makes for a super versatile top and elevated addition to any wardrobe.
We've paired the blue, collarless Viola with jeans for an effortlessly cool look.
Like the blue version, the mauve Viola is also collarless with the 3/4 length sleeve, but this lightweight viscose-spandex mix is more lightweight, creating a different look. This softer, drapier Viola is styled with our Ella Skirt. These two make such a great party or date night outfit!
Lastly, our black sample features the collared view and below-wrist sleeve, and was sewn up a in a textured synthetic knit. The soft sheen and lovely drape of this fabric make it perfect for an elevated occasion, while still being cozy and comfortable. It looks oh-so-smart paired with our Sabrina Skirt made up in this lush black velvet.
We're celebrating Viola's arrival with 20% off until midnight December 15th! Just use the code VIOLA at checkout. Grab the pattern by clicking here. We can't wait to see what you make!
]]>This finish is also known as a "baby hem", but I prefer "pin hem". It is believed that the term "pin hem" refers to the fact that it is super delicate - narrow as a pin! It's funny how many terms there are for different techniques in sewing.
In the video, I show a lightly curved edge, which is why I clip into it, but for a straight edge, you do not need to do any clipping. One more note, you will want to use a hem allowance of 1/2" (1.3cm) for this finish.
This finish is fully illustrated in the pattern booklet for Lola, but now, we have videos too. The first version is the long version, with a voiceover. But if you just want the "cheat sheet", check out the second video - it contains the highlights edited into one minute!
Pin hems are a great finish for lightly curved edges, such as the boatneck neckline on our Lola dress. It avoids the need for heavy finishes such as facings, which do not work well for sheers and lightweight fabrics.
Because a pin hem is such a narrow finish, it avoids the issues that wider hems cause with curved edges. Anyone who's tried a wide hem on a curved edge knows that it is a recipe for a puckery nightmare!
Take a look at the neckline on this sheer silk Lola. It has been finished with a pin hem. Such a delicate, tiny finish! It really complements the airy fabric, and keeps it perfectly lightweight.
This sheer Lola sample showcases our free Gemma tie belt, as well as our Ruffle sleeve expansion.
The Lola below also makes use of the pin hem technique. This time, the technique is used on the boat neck, as well as the sleeve hems. These are both lightly curved edges which are perfect candidates for a pin hem. It allows the fabric to delicately drape at the sleeve. A heavier finish like a facing or wide hem would cause bulk, and stick out from the body.
This Lola is paired with our Sabrina pencil skirt.
I hope you learned a lot about this wonderful hemming technique and are inspired to use it to elevate the finish on your next lightweight project. It really makes tiny hems so manageable, and the results are fabulous.
]]>The Lola blouse and dress is on sale to celebrate, with 20% off using code LOLALOVE. (Sale ends May 8th.)
Boon Kuan used this lovely Nani Iro linen for her Lola blouse. The crispness of the linen gives great body to the sleeves. And the asymmetric stripe creates a lovely feature.
Allison cleverly used a border print along the hem of the ruffle sleeve. This is a great way to play with grainlines! She kept the yoke plain, which showcases the back pleat nicely. This softer rayon fabric drapes wonderfully.
Bernice shows off a lovely block colour with her make that is simple and fresh. She made the medium bust view with the scoop neck.
Nadia used a printed rayon challis from Lady McElroy. She opted to use the ruffle options for both the sleeve and the back yoke, which complements this lightweight, drapey fabric perfectly. It's so fun having that little surprise in the back.
Rosa styled her Lola blouse in a ditsy print, paired with jeans. It makes for the perfect blouse to just pull on and go!
Linda got clever, and modified the length of the dress view into a maxi by extending the length and adding a ruffle to the base. We love to see people get creative with modifying our patterns!
Chloe chose a viscose challis and says it's a dream to wear! Again we have another double-ruffle feature on display and we love to see it.
Rayon was a very popular fabric choice for this pattern, and rightly so. It drapes beautifully softly, giving an elegant look to the ruffle. Jenni used the full bust fit option. She cleverly managed to get this pattern out of less than one metre of fabric! By cutting some pieces on the crossgrain, she was able to fit it all in. A bit of pattern tetris is always satisfying, and the result is beautiful!
Nandita knows how to play with fun fabric. As an original tester for the Lola pattern, it's become a "TNT" (Tried-and-True) pattern for her. That's one of the highest compliments we can get! She looks fabulous as always!
We are truly proud of our Lola pattern and the new dose of versatility she gets with her new ruffle sleeve. To celebrate, we're offering 20% off until May the 8th with the code LOLALOVE. Click here to order the Lola pattern now, and click here to get the ruffle expansion.
It's a great buzz to share beautiful makes with you all. We are always impressed by the variety of looks! Keep an eye on our Instagram or Facebook for a regular dose of inspiration, as well as tutorials and sneak peeks.
]]>
Our new ruffle sleeve is an expansion to the Lola blouse and dress pattern. It's sold separately to the Lola, and comes with its own print-out and instructions. The ruffle sleeve is a mini-download that adds extra versatility to the base pattern, and she is available today - just click here! If you don't already have the base Lola pattern, good news: We are celebrating the new ruffle sleeve with a sale. Use the code LOLALOVE to get 20% off the Lola pattern this week.
The ruffle sleeve features a shaped crown, so that it falls on the perfect angle on the arm.
If you're not familiar with the Lola pattern, she's a classic wardrobe staple that can be made up as a blouse or a dress. There are two neckline views: a boat neck and a scoop neck. And there is also a sweet feature in the back which we'll show you soon!
Lola is easy to sew, and you will learn gorgeous techniques for sheers and lightweight fabrics. And then of course, you also have the option of a delicate ruffle addition to the back yoke.
Lola is perfect for all the lightweight and sheer woven fabrics you are holding onto. Our lilac dress sample and the blush blouse sample are both lightweight viscose. Our latest sample is made up in a beautiful embellished silk mesh. The sheer fabric is an amazing showcase for those delicate sewing techniques. Check out the super-fine finish on the neckline! Our illustrated pin-hem instructions will give you gorgeous results.
Don't forget, the Lola pattern comes in three different bust sizes. Our model Sam (in sheer silk) wears hers in the medium bust fit, while Victoria wears the full bust fit.
We styled our new Lola dress with the Gemma tie belt, one of our free patterns! We also styled it sans belt, so you can compare and pick the look that's right for you.
Lola + Gemma
Lola sans belt
Let's talk some more about our silk sample. Yes, we opted for both the yoke ruffle AND the ruffle sleeves, because why not?
This sheer silk is a wonderful showcase for airy, floaty details. We used French seams throughout this make for a perfectly neat finish on the inside.
If you haven't already, you can check out our original launch blog post for Lola. And don't forget, we are celebrating with 20% off the Lola pattern all week with code LOLALOVE. You can get the Lola pattern here, and the ruffle expansion here! We can't wait to see your makes.
]]>If you haven't already, check out our launch blog post, or grab your own April dress pattern here (Use code HEYAPRIL for our 20% off launch deal)!
Boon Kuan used this striking gradient quilting cotton for her April make, and we said "wow" as soon as we saw it. It's a testament to her sewing skills how well-matched the colour is at the wavy line. This fabric and her tailoring really emphasise the A-line shape of the dress. This make shows off the pockets at the wavy line. So delightful!
We've noted in the pattern that it's suitable for directional prints, and Kris's make is a perfect example of what we envisioned. The second photo shows how the curved seam flows along the back to subtly emphasise the body's natural contours.
Nicole colourblocked her April dress, using pink linen for the body and a gorgeous linen gingham for the skirt and Gemma belt. This make shows how different the dress can look when it uses very different fabrics. She used the small bust option. "Thanks Jo for a sweet design to help my candy pink creation come to life!" she says.
Nadia put a lot of work into this dress, and the results were gorgeous! She used the same lightweight cotton sateen fabric pattern in two different colours for a striking change that emphasises the wavy line. She used the full bust version of the pattern. Originally she opted for pockets on the wavy line, but due to the flexibility of the fabric changed to the side seam pockets. She also added a contrast hem at the bottom.
Rosa made her April dress in a very cute floral embroidered white cotton. "I am loving this pattern! The dress is so me!" she said. She chose to make it in the shorter length, and without the belt.
The pink cotton, above the knee length and side-seam pockets give this dress a casual, laid-back cool. The belt, in the same fabric, is a subtle way to emphasize both the waistline and the wavy line below. We love Diana's whole look.
Holly made her red floral cotton lawn dress with the longer hem and the small bust options. She used the same fabric for the belt, showing how subtle the belt is and how the cinch highlights the waistline. "It’s very comfortable to wear and I love the addition of the belt." she says.
Astrid surprised us with a really cool detail: piping at the sleeve edge and the wavy line. She also added a band of contrasting fabric at the collar and hem of this brown woven faux suede April A-line dress. Rather than using the Gemma belt, she added one of her own, with great results! She made hers with the full bust. "All in all a super comfy dress, and I just adore the pockets and the wave!" she says.
Keira used this bright, bold crinkle rayon for her make, and used the pink of the skirt for her Gemma belt. The combination really makes this stand out – and it's a palette that works well on Keira! She made this with a medium bustline. The crinkle rayon had a lot of give, which made the easy fit even more easy.
The wavy line pockets were popular among our testers. "The impact of those curve pockets adds something really special to the overall look of the dress," Jodi said. She prefers to wear it un-belted in order to show those curvy pockets off!
Farah made a pretty pink April in a medium weight linen, with a gather along the wavy line that adds a great bit of texture. She used the medium bust for this pattern and graded the size slightly at the hips. She also took up the challenge to make the pocket along the wavy line, and gave us a detail photo to show it off!
Showing off how the use of two different fabrics can really make the wavy line detail pop, Yvonne used a beige linen fabric for the torso and an earth-toned linen floral for the skirt. She also used the skirt fabric to make the Gemma belt, which adds a pretty contrast. She also made the side-seam pockets, the small bust, and added a little length for a graceful below-the-knee hemline.
"This was the first woven dress I’ve ever made and I really love it! " Mary said. This jewel-toned linen blend make by Mary shows how dressy the April A-Line and Gemma belt can be, depending on how you choose to make and style it.
Linda chose this gorgeous floral print and a long skirt length for her April and Gemma makes. However, she says she does not recommend the 100% polyester fabric she used as it was tough to sew with and hid the wavy line in the dress.
Sara proved that beige does not have to mean boring with this delightful make in soft poplin. She played with grainlines to great effect. The trim along the hem takes it up a notch! She made the small bust option and changed up the bodice length and easy closure slightly. It all combines for an effortlessly cool, casual look.
The yellow body and green floral skirt gives Rhi's linen April A-Line dress a striking look. She made hers with the full bust option. The detail image shows how she constructed the wavy line pocket variant.
Veronique shows off the deep pockets she put on her April cotton lawn make, with an appropriate bouquet. "This pattern is so cute! " she says. You can see how laid-back and casual the April A-Line dress can look, especially when it's unbelted.
We love seeing the different makes of our Forget-Me-Not patterns. Do you have one you'd like to share with us, that we could feature in a future post? Let us know!
To celebrate the April dress launch, we're offering 20% off until April 1 with the code HEYAPRIL. Click here to order the pattern now!
]]>April is our new A-line dress pattern that is made for woven fabrics. The sizing goes up to 143cm (56.5") at the hip, which is two sizes larger than any of our previously released patterns. It's easy-fit with only one closure, but with three bust options so you can have the perfect fit. It has a unique wavy design that goes all around the body, with options for a gathered or flat view skirt.
This dress also offers the chance to learn something new. For sewists that really want to challenge themselves, we offer an optional super-clever pocket in the wavy seam. We've added extremely detailed step-by-step instructions, with images, to walk you through how to make this pocket. We've even included steps for how to construct one for a colour-blocked garment.
Because it's an easy-fit dress, it's so easy to wear. Just throw it on and go! You'll look dressed up, and you'll feel perfectly comfortable. And if you want to add a bit more flair, well, that's where our next pattern comes in.
We've released a second free pattern as well! Gemma is a tie belt pattern made with the gathered April in mind. But once we made Gemma, we realized that she had potential beyond the April dress. So she comes as part of the April pattern, but she is also a free pattern on her own. She's simple, versatile and an easy sew that's perfect for beginners. She sizes up to a 115cm (45.5") waist measurement.
To celebrate April, we're offering 20% off her until April 1 with the code HEYAPRIL. Click here to order the pattern now!
Want to learn more about the newest Forget-Me-Not dress pattern? Read on...
April is designed specifically for light to medium weight non-stretch wovens. Fabric with a stable weave is best to ensure the wavy design line holds its shape. Depending on what fabrics you pick for the dress, you can create some radically different looks.
The wavy seam design at hip level is subtle when one fabric is used for the entire dress. Colorblocking, on the other hand, emphasises this element of the design, and adds an element of shape even when the dress is worn loose.
The Gemma belt can use the same fabric as in the torso of the dress for an understated look, or a contrasting fabric to emphasize the way it cinches in the waist. Or use one fabric on each side for a reversible belt to fit your many fashion moods!
Yes, a dress can be both easy fit and perfectly fitted. We've provided three different bust fits with this pattern so you can more easily make a dress that is tailored to the unique shape of your body. For more information, check the sizing page. The April booklet has even more information to help you pick the right bust fit for you.
The April dress has several different options to help you make the dress even more unique to you.
We feel everyone deserves pockets. And when possible, they deserve the option of putting pockets in the spot where they want them. That's why we've provided two different pocket options.
There is a traditional side-seam pocket that's simple to sew. If you want to create a challenging but rewarding little detail, we've also designed a pocket that goes on the wavy seam line.
We've provided two separate hem lengths, one that comes to the knee and one that is two inches/5 cm shorter. We also have tips on how to alter the hemline still further.
The choice is up to you whether or not to have a defined waistline. The Gemma belt is the perfect way to bring this dress in at the waist. If you prefer a looser look, just wear it unbelted. You'll find that the two looks are very different.
We've provided optional waist tucks to organise the fullness of the waist. If you know you'll only wear this dress with a belt, you may find the waist tucks add a good emphasis to the dress.
We styled this in several different ways during the photo shoot. We were struck by how different the dress can look depending on how it's worn.
This apricot crinkle linen April A-line dress has a hemline just above the knee and cinches the waist with the Gemma belt. The gathers at the wavy seam add a bit of emphasis, and the wavy line pocket is a unique design feature that's sure to get comments. It's comfortable, casual and fun.
This make is almost identical to the apricot crinkle linen, with the exception that the pockets are on the side seam rather than the wavy line. Yet it has a completely different aura.
With the Gemma belt this feels like a day at the office, but swapping to a leather belt makes it feel like the right choice for a night out.
The colour-blocking in this dress gives the wavy line even more emphasis than the gathers and tucks do in the other two makes. In the shorter length with no pockets and no tie belt, this has a very flat finish and really shows off the A-line structure of the dress. It feels a bit like 2021 has decided to remix the best part of 60s and 80s fashion.
Remember, you can get 20% off your April dress pattern until April 1 with the code HEYAPRIL. Just click here to order.
We will be sharing some fabulous tester makes soon, so don't forget to follow along on our Instagram and Facebook pages to keep in the loop. Happy sewing everyone, and remember to share your make on social with the hashtag #fmnApril !
]]>If you haven't already got the Clementine pattern, you can see all the details and buy it here. Use code FBA for 20% off Clementine (today is the last day of the sale).
Let's get to those lovely makes!
Ida chose to layer her Clementine dress with tights and a coat in an accent colour.
Jessica, who in her words is "all about sunshine and flowers right now" put this energy into her bold blue Clementine with a cropped sleeve. We look forward to seeing the short sleeve version you're planning on making for the warmer months.
Channeling her inner ballerina, Suzie made a dreamy taupe Clementine dress with a three-quarter sleeve.
Kathleen opted for the top pattern variation. With a beautiful deepened cowl neckline (using our tutorial here) she made her Clementine from a ribbed knit in a deep wine hue.
For those with a penchant for sweetness: Kawaii Berry's short-sleeved, popsicle print Clementine is perfect for summer days in the sun.
We love seeing how people style their makes and were happy Lori found the Clementine top to be a nice addition to her fall wardrobe in bamboo terry fabric.
Andie created a monochrome short-sleeve Clementine top to be worn with pink pants. She reviewed it on her blog and also talked about it on the Curvy Sewing Collective. She used the full bust tutorial (as we had not released full bust pieces yet, at the time!) as well as the tutorial on deepening the cowl neck.
Making excellent use of the versatility of the pattern, Samantha used a waffle knit to create a cozy jumper. Perfect for beach walks on crisp winter days!
Holly shows us that the only thing cuter than a flowy winter dress is a mini-me dressed in the same print! This navy pattern works effortlessly with tights, black boots and a nice pair of shades.
One of the most rewarding things about creating digital patterns is watching our Clementines explore the globe. Mel took her Clementine to Amsterdam and the burnt orange fabric works perfectly with the natural Fall hues.
Rebecca used the Clementine pattern to create a versatile layering piece for her vibrant and vintage wardrobe. Love this sassy look!
Victoria used a organic cotton jersey in a stunning poppy print to make her Clementine dress. She made it to be worn with boots and a beanie for a hiking trip but as you can see here, it works just as well with flats and a statement bag. Check out her blog post here for more details on process and fit.
Erin showcases how classic a polka-dot cowl-neck Clementine top can look with a beret and a tan pencil skirt. Tres chic!
As the Clementine pattern comes with top and dress pattern variations, Indu used the skirt part of the dress pattern to make this skirt and top combo. An easy hack and very clever!
With a sewing pattern the possibilities are infinite, and what better representation than Chelsea's galaxy print scoop-neck Clementine tee? This fabric is a four-way stretch jersey with 95% cotton and 5% lycra to give a nice comfortable fit.
Lisa made the Clementine dress for her mother in two different floral pattern colourways. The full sleeve is complemented with an elegant skirt length.
Brittani from Untitled Thoughts (and Brittani's cat Nodame) both approve of this free-flowing short sleeve Clementine dress. Brittani is a fellow indie designer and we are huge fans of her stylish designs!
Tiffany made a striking scoop-neck Clementine dress with short sleeves and bold blue print - perfect for summer.
Using a structured scuba knit for her Clementine top, Nicole paired the marbled cowl-neck top with peach twill trousers for a comfortable yet stylish look.
ScaryCanary made a delightful blue floral Clementine. Using this quick-make to help pass some lockdown hours, she even utilised fabric offcuts to make a pair of briefs. Due to a mistake in cutting on her first one, she had to make a waist seam, but it looks just fine! Sewers are very resourceful folk. For her second one, she made it as designed!
Cortney used a mid-weight ponte knit for this royal blue Clementine. She noted the Clementine gets bonus points for "twirlyness" which we love!
Of the Clementine's pattern variations, Mona went for a short sleeve top that makes a lovely feature of the princess seams using a vibrant contrast print.
Birdy managed to make this beautiful Clementine dress in a textured knit in 5 hours from pattern printing to finish! We love the subtle topstitching on the shoulder seams. She always takes her sewing to the next level and does an amazing job of showing the process.
Carolyn rates the Clementine for "swish factor" and we rate her make for the futuristic-cool the slate-grey mesh fabric brings. She chose a midi-length with plenty of cowl and skirt to twirl.
TreesInWelly has been a busy bee. This is just one of a growing collection of Clementine makes we're delighted to see are filling her wardrobe. Based in Wellington, New Zealand (like us!) we know how important trans-seasonal pieces are in Aotearoa's windy capital.
Patsy was happy to report that this Clementine dress required no fit alterations and that the viscose ponte fabric has produced no bobbling. Win-win all round.
Britt chose velour jersey both with and without diamantes. An excellent example of how contrasting fabric can be beautifully nuanced. She also says stretch is the right call to make room for a hearty Christmas meal and we couldn't agree more.
Meanwhile in the Southern Hemisphere, the Clementine dress also worked well for KJ's New Zealand Christmas. The print she chose is a nice nod to the "Kiwi" summer Christmas.
I hope you have enjoyed this lovely gallery. We really love and appreciate the passion that our customers have for sewing, as well as their creativity with their choices for our patterns! Again, you can get Clementine knit dress and top here (20% off with code FBA ends today).
This marks our last blog post for 2020, so enjoy your holiday breaks, and we will see you in the New Year! I am looking forward to seeing what the new year brings. -Jo
]]>Clementine was the first pattern we ever released (aww!). It's really nice to provide ongoing support and updates for our patterns.
]]>Clementine was the first pattern we ever released (aww!). It's really nice to provide ongoing support and updates for our patterns.
We are celebrating the update with a sale, so if you haven't already got the Clementine pattern, you can see all the details and buy it here. Use code FBA for 20% off Clementine. This pattern sews up quickly, yet the princess seams make it so flattering on the body!
Everyone who has already bought the Clementine pattern will receive the update for free. Please note, since we started out, we have upgraded our digital downloads system, which sometimes causes issues for older orders. So, if you do not receive the update automatically, just get in touch and we will sort it out for you.
In addition to the major update, there are a few small other changes to Clementine, so read on for the details.
The scoop neck view in rayon double knit
A good fit is something I'm very passionate about as a designer, so it's really nice to offer an extra fit option. We don't have any extra photoshoot images to share with the new fit option as of now, but the design lines do remain the same, just modified to fit a fuller bust!
The full bust fit option has three new pieces: the scoop neck front, the cowl neck front, and the side front.
The cowl neck view in rayon jersey
With the release of the new pieces, we have taken the chance to re-arrange the printable files. We now have separate files for each bust view, as well as a separate print-out of just the full bust pieces, in case you want them as an add-on to the base pattern you already have. We also have a little instruction booklet for the full bust version of the pattern, with all the additional information you might need.
On the old version of the pattern, the files were split into two different size sets, but now we have combined all the sizes into one file. Because you are able to choose which sizes you print, this does not impact the usability or convenience of the pattern at all.
We have managed to reduce the number of pages needed for the print at home file by 5 pages for some versions of the file, which is a nice little bonus.
The only errata is for the neck band; while the neck band of the original is still the correct length, the notches on the new neck band have been moved a little bit, which makes sewing a bit easier. This is still a very minor change which generally would not affect your sewing noticeably, so do not worry if you are using the original version instead.
The cowl neck view dress in a warm acrylic knit
I hope you are excited about the new fit option for the Clementine dress and top. Look forward to diverse fit options in our future releases, too!
]]>I have been developing my invisible zip technique for years, and have tried every way of sewing them! I have combined all the things I've learned along the way into my own ultimate method. I absolutely love this pinless way of sewing. And if it scares you to sew without pins, don't worry, I have some handling tips, and even some examples that show you what not to do. If you still prefer to use pins, of course that's okay too! Sewing is all about doing it the way that makes you happy.
]]>Check out our in-depth video on sewing an invisible zip! This tutorial was created as part of the extra content for the Ella skirt, which you can buy here. But naturally, you can use this tutorial for any pattern which uses an invisible zip!
I have been developing my invisible zip technique for years, and have tried every way of sewing them! I have combined all the things I've learned along the way into my own ultimate method. I absolutely love this pinless way of sewing. And if it scares you to sew without pins, don't worry, I have some handling tips, and even some examples that show you what not to do. If you still prefer to use pins, of course that's okay too! Sewing is all about doing it the way that makes you happy.
You can watch the whole thing below. If you want to skip to different steps in the video, there are clickable time-stamps in the description of the video (click here to see the video on YouTube, where you can view the full description). For a written summary of the steps, see below. We also have a super-abridged version of the video, which is right at the bottom of the article! Consider it a cheat sheet if you're already familiar, or just want to get the gist of it.
Fuse the part of the seam where the zip will be placed, fusing past the zip notch by 2cm (3/4").
Finish the edges with an overlock or zig zag stitch.
Sew the seam, right sides together up to the zip notch, backtacking securely at the notch. Press open
Place the zip right sides together with the garment. Sew from the top down, using an invisible zip foot. Stop and backtack when you get to 3mm (1/8") away from the seam.
Zip the zip up and check your base is aligned correctly. Confirm your alignment is correct with a pin and then basting the base with the machine (using a standard zip foot) for about 5cm (2"). The pin check is just a little insurance. In my experience, trying to go too fast and skipping your quality control checks often wastes more time than you save, which is why I now always take that little extra moment (from experience, unpicking invisible zips that's you've rushed the sewing on is not that fun)!
Unzip the zip, and place it right sides together with the other side of the seam. Sew from the top down, again backtacking 3mm (1/8") away from the seam.
Now that you've done all the sewing, you just need to bring the zip pull up through the small hole in the seam (this can be a little bit fiddly, but have patience!). Now you can zip it up and press. Time to celebrate!
Below is the super-abridged version. You might find it helpful if you want a quick refresher!
That's it! I hope this tutorial really helps you achieve invisible zip success, and dare I say it, even invisible zip joy! If you have any questions or have your own invisible zip tips and thoughts, leave a comment below.
]]>It's always a lot of fun sharing testers makes; seeing the design made up in lots of different fabrics is always inspiring, as well as seeing it styled in so many ways.
You can see our launch blog post for Vera here, and get the pattern for free here!
Marja made her Vera in a merino jacquard knit and the neckline looks just perfect! During testing, I focused a lot on getting the fit and length of the cuffs right. For the final product, I opted to shorten the cuffs a little, so the cuffs in this picture are a bit longer than the final pattern, as this was the first version of the pattern! Some of the testers made the earliest, longest cuffs, some made the shortened cuff, and some made both.
Karen made hers in a lovely dotted knit.
Ase used an asymmetrical print and a contrast neckband to great effect!
Dana made her Vera top in a lovely Jacquard from Mind the Maker. The warm and cozy knits are great with the long cuff view!
Gemma used a lovely solid colour knit. Simple and classic.
Ilse showcased two lovely print with her Vera tops, and made both the long cuff view, and the short cuff view. With her second make, she also tried out the scoop neck template, which looks great!
Kirsten made two versions. Her first was before the final, shorter version of the cuff, which is why it looks a bit too long in the arms.
For her second version, she used the short cuffs, and the scoop neck template. As you can see, this neckline option is a moderately low scoop. Such fun fabric for this one!
Koe is so clever that she made this Vera using an old maxi skirt! How resourceful, and the placement of that large print is quite stunning on the front of the top!
She also made the short cuff version in another lovely print.
Laura commented that she found it easy to put together, the neckline being the most challenging part, of course! Another lovely fabric choice.
Lisa opted for a solid colour, which looks elegantly simple.
Lynn went next-level and upcycled a vintage piece of knitwear, and colour-blocked the sleeve. She also played around with the hem shape too, dropping it down in the front, and creating a shirt-tail-like hem in back. So clever!
Marlies used a classic lightweight sweater knit to get this gorgeously casual look! She also used the scoop neck template, but raised it a little (4cm).
Melissa made her Vera out of a very fun print. I love the simplicity of it!
Nadia paired her jacquard sweater knit Vera with a gorgeous embroidered Ella skirt, as she was in the tester pool for both designs! I just love the casualness of the top paired with the elegant skirt.
Stephanie made two Veras! The long cuff version was made in a bamboo/spandex jersey.
Her short cuff version was made in a polyester/spandex jacquard knit with a really fun print!
Rebecca kept it simple with a lovely orange knit!
Tania styled hers tucked in. She made it in a light french terry and she said she absolutely loves it! My testers were so kind and helpful during the testing process with all their feedback.
Tea made some brilliant Vera tops, using fun prints and colour-blocking to excellent effect! Even better when her skirt matches the top. So much fun!
Veronique use a cotton/elastane blend. She enlarged her cuffs a little for her preference. They are designed to be snug, which is why I added a tip in the instructions about trying them on before sewing them in! That's just an example of the valuable feedback our testers give; a huge part of testing is seeing how it fits on individuals and choosing what works best for the broadest range of people!
Audrey made her Vera in a viscose jersey with a pretty print. It looks lovely on her!
I love this cream Vera by Vicki, which feels so simple and romantic.
Bernice chose a beautiful watercolour print fabric (a bamboo lycra). She shortened the top slightly to match her stature. I think it looks stunning.
So that's our lovely tester makes. During the process, they gave a lot of helpful feedback. I'm proud to say that I put just as much effort into this pattern as I would for any paid offering. I hope that through offering this as a free pattern, lots of people can experience and enjoy our high-quality patternmaking and instructions!
"I really like that you can create a lovely jersey top that is more then the normal t-shirt."
"I learned how to used a template for a different neckline. It's the first pattern I've used that does that and I think it's a brilliant idea." (of the scoop neck template).
"It was quick and straightforward, with clear instructions. Doing the V neck was satisfying."
"I really liked the fun sleeve options. I also really like the curved hem. I didn't notice this in your call for testers, so it was a lovely surprise when I made the top. It's an excellent basic with a twist. I know I'll wear it a lot."
As always, I am very grateful for the testers for their insights and feedback. It will be a while before our next tester callout, but next time we may be doing things differently, so that it is less of a lottery, and more of a queue system. But for now, I really am glad that all the testers who missed out on testing Vera, actually get to make it for free after all.
And of course, thanks to everyone who has shared their excitement so far for the Vera top!
]]>Vera is a top pattern designed for knit fabrics that has a fun, full sleeve. You can grab the pattern here right now, or read on for more details.
]]>It's a huge week for Forget-me-not, having just launched a fresh skirt pattern, and now, our first free pattern. Think of Vera as a "thank you" to all the people who have supported Forget-me-not Patterns so far, and a big "hello" to anyone who hasn't tried our patterns before!
Vera is a top pattern designed for knit fabrics that has a fun, full sleeve. You can grab the pattern here right now for free, or read on for more details.
Our first look is a cozy one, made in merino, with the long cuff view. The long cuff goes right down to the wrist, and fits snugly. This view was very popular with testers! Here it is paired with our newly-released Ella skirt. (By the way, today is the last day to get 20% off Ella with code HELLO_ELLA!)
The Vera top features two different cuff options. Or, you can leave the cuff off for a simple flared sleeve! Here it is with the short cuff view, made in a viscose jersey. Perfect for warmer weather! Here again, we paired it with the Ella skirt, this time in the shortest length.
The V-neck and the gathering create extra interest and make Vera a little more challenging than a basic tee pattern. This is a subtle V-neck which complements the curves of the body with its shaping. These two features make Vera an Intermediate level pattern, although it can be made by confident beginners who want to learn some new skills!
If sewing the V-neck is a bit more challenging than you'd like, or if you just want extra options for your Vera top, there is a scoop neck expansion! Check out the scoop neck in combination with the simple flared sleeve. The flared sleeve is the easiest of the three sleeve options, naturally! This look is made in a viscose jersey, which is a great choice as it drapes well.
The scoop neck option is a paid mini-download, which acts as an expansion pack for your Vera top. The great thing is that it also works with the Iris tee too, so now you have more options for both patterns! The scoop neck is an easier sewing option than the V-neck, so consider it if you want a less challenging experience. You can buy the scoop neck expansion here. This is our first expansion pack, which is also exciting.
The Vera top is fitted at the bust, while mild shaping at the side seams creates a relaxed fit through the waist. The hemline has a bit of shaping from front to back, dipping a little lower in the back.
Of course, I'm a big fan of the french tuck, which gives a relaxed yet lightly tailored vibe!
So that's our first free pattern, the Vera top! A lot of time and love went into this pattern, so I really hope you enjoy it.
Remember, your support of Forget-me-not Patterns means everything to us (we couldn't exist without our customers!), so please consider checking out the rest of our catalogue. And a HUGE thank you to everyone who has supported us up to now!! You can see the rest of our patterns here, and get the Vera top here.
Look forward to seeing some beautiful tester makes next!
If you would like to keep up with all our news, you can join in on our Instagram and Facebook pages, or sign up to our newsletter.
]]>We always get incredible testers, and this time was no exception. During testing, I allow testers to make small changes to their makes so they can personalise it to their preferences (after all, isn't that the best part about sewing?). Of course, I make sure that they don't do anything drastic, or it wouldn't be a very good pattern test! It is often a great way to get even more inspiration for the versatility of the pattern, and ideas for hacks. If the testers in these pictures have made any alterations to the style, I will point them out. I hope it inspires you for the potential of this pattern! Enjoy looking at all the lovely pictures of their makes!
]]>It's one of my favourite times...sharing tester makes for our latest release!
You can check out the launch blog post for Ella with all the details here, and buy the pattern here! (Use our launch week code HELLO_ELLA for 20% off).
We always get incredible testers, and this time was no exception. During testing, I allow testers to make small changes to their makes so they can personalise it to their preferences (after all, isn't that the best part about sewing?). Of course, I make sure that they don't do anything drastic, or it wouldn't be a very good pattern test! It is often a great way to get even more inspiration for the versatility of the pattern, and ideas for hacks. If the testers in these pictures have made any alterations to the style, I will point them out. I hope it inspires you for the potential of this pattern! Enjoy looking at all the lovely pictures of their makes!
Renee made hers in a thrifted cotton. She very cleverly used an existing rolled hem on the fabric to use as the finished edge of her ruffle. A nifty time saver, and it looks great too! She made the mid-length view with rounded patch pocket.
Anne made hers up in a mid-weight linen. She made the pockets 3cm larger in width and height, which suits the long view quite nicely!
Cassandra made her knee-length Ella in a lightweight crepe and used the in-seam pockets. Perfect for twirling!
Chui made hers in the longest length in a cotton batik print, and did some clever planning with her print placement! She shortened the bottom tier by one inch to make it fit perfectly with her print. I love it paired with a simple top like this!
Dana made a gorgeously cozy Ella in flannel. Perfect for transitioning into colder seasons! I love how she's styled it with a turtleneck and boots.
Debra made a fun skirt in banana print silk satin! She also did something clever: she cut a smaller size in the skirt to reduce the level of gathers in the skirt. This give a slimmer fit to the silhouette. A few testers experimented with this, and I have even included it as a tip in the booklet!
Elisa made hers in a synthetic twill, and styled it in the perfect Autumnal vibe.
Eliza used a cotton sateen fabric. I love to see people enjoying the in-seam pockets!
Johanna went with the knee-length option, and picked a gorgeous shade of rusty orange for her skirt.
Gemma made hers in a lightweight viscose in the knee length. Love it styled with a casual jacket (and a great sewing space too).
Anjori made hers in a lightweight remnant, and she styled it a few different ways too!
She chose to go with a contrast waistband, and also added piping to the ruffle seam, which looks beautiful and ties it all together. She also added a bit of height to the waistband so it was 5cm (2") high finished. Here she tied it in with a top in the same fabric for a faux-dress effect.
She also did the trick of sizing down in the skirt to decrease the amount of gathers at the waist. It looks great on her!
I love this nostalgic styling from Jessie!
Jo is always so much fun (and I love her Instagram captions too)! She made a few mods to her gingham masterpiece. She made the knee length, and added 1.5" length to the gathered tier. Not to mention the addition of chunky ric-rac, and added gathered embellishments around the edges of the pockets!
Kathryn is currently pregnant, so used some clever modifications to her Ella skirt, by cutting a larger waistband and adding elastic, for a fit that can change with her needs. I definitely think an elastic tutorial is in order, as I think that will be quite a popular pattern hack!
I am also loving that she cut her pockets on the bias, for an extra visual detail. I think ginghams and plaids are a perfect fit for this design, so bring on those fun bias details!
Katie made hers in a fresh, white cotton. She lengthened the ruffle tier by 5cm (2"). It looks gorgeous with simple clean styling!
Kiera made the long length view, with no modifications, in a stretch cotton. I'm in love with this dreamy photo!
Ana used a lovely drapey, soft rayon for hers. She made the longest view, but took some length out since she is shorter than average. I think she nailed the proportion for herself!
Koelyn has tested before and I enjoy her lovely photos so much! I love her version in drapey fabric, with in-seam pockets.
Nastasia made the shortest version in a lightweight viscose challis that moves beautifully. She wore a slip with it, rather than lining it. Simply gorgeous styling!
Nicole accessorised her Ella perfectly with a bum-bag (I think Americans call this a fanny-pack?), hah! She said she loved the swish factor and this is the perfect fabric for it, a slippery rayon.
Veronique used an interesting scuba suede fabric. I love the volume it gives the ruffled tier. And the outfit is just gorgeously bohemian!
Wendy made a long skirt! The print on this version is so lovely, and looks great with a simple top.
I love this short one from Wendy. She is petite, so shortened through both the skirt, and the ruffled tier (1.3cm/ 1/2" through the skirt, and 7.5cm / 3" through the tier). The slightly shorter tier works well with the short skirt too!
Boon Kuan is a wonderful tester to have on board. She made two different versions, each with their own special features! For both her skirts, she used the trick of cutting one size down in the skirt pieces, to reduce the fullness of the gathers slightly.
Her blue skirt was made with no other modifications, and she used the rounded patch pockets. Again, with the crisp, simple styling, it's perfect for warm weather!
For her next version (made in rayon), she made the shortest view, but she lengthened the bottom tier 2.5cm (1"). Then, she also preserved a bit of extra length by hemming the tier with a rolled hem, instead of the standard double-folded hem. Doing that in a contrast black thread was so clever. It looks great! She also added some height to the waistband, which is a nice easy alteration to do.
And that's the round-up! I hope you have enjoyed all the inspiration and insights into the little ways you can make it your own. Our testers stun me every time with their beautiful makes and the exciting ways they style them. I hope this has inspired you and shown you how trans-seasonal the design can be! From wintery flannels, to summery rayons, and everything in between.
As always, huge thanks to the testers, and all the feedback they gave along the way. There were so many great things that I incorporated into the final product, and I'm truly to excited to share this design with everyone.
And of course, thank you to all the customers that have supported Forget-me-not. Remember, you can get 20% off Ella for launch week, using the code HELLO_ELLA at checkout (click here to buy the pattern). This one is a really fun, versatile skirt to sew, and I can't wait to see what you all make!
]]>
It's launch week for the Ella skirt! The Ella skirt is a gathered skirt with a subtle high-low hem. It comes in three different lengths, and has three different pocket options, so you can mix and match for your perfect look.
To get your copy, click here to go straight to the product page. For the launch week, you can use the code HELLO_ELLA to get 20% off.
Read on for more info, and a nice walkthrough of all the different looks we created for the shoot.
Let's chat about the longest view first. This view is a midi-length skirt that gives off a relaxed, bohemian vibe. This view was very popular with my testers! The best part was seeing it styled for different seasons; worn with boots and tights for a romantic Autumn outfit, or made out of a light chambray or rayon, and teamed with a simple blouse or tee for something light and airy! For the photoshoot sample, I used a gorgeous mustard printed rayon from Atelier Brunette. It is teamed with a plain cream Iris tee (made in a rayon knit. And yes, the Iris is a great basic when it's not busy being a fancy pleated design!).
This version of the skirt features the rounded patch pockets, although you'd be forgiven for not noticing them straight away. The printed fabric is great camouflage for the pockets!
I personally love a tailored waistband; it's so classic. The Ella skirt features a fitted waistband that sits at the natural waist. It closes at centre back with an invisible hook and eye closure and an invisible zip.
When it comes to the shape, it's important to note that it is not a rectangular skirt, but an A-line skirt. The angled side seams give movement and drape through the hip, unlike than a basic gathered rectangle, which can feel more bulky due to its reliance on gathers.
The shortest length sits above the knee. This sample was made up in a lovely dot-embellished black cotton. I love that this shot shows off both the in-seam pockets, and the slight high-low effect from front to back!
I always feel like saying, "This is a really fun sew" when I launch a pattern, but then I realise that I think that about every design...because if you love sewing, you just love sewing!! But there is always some special element that I find the most fun, and for Ella, that part for me is the gathers. They are just so satisfying, and give such a fun swish factor to the skirt.
Now, maybe you're thinking, "That knit top with the full sleeves is super great, I want to make that too!". Well! Great news, the knit top pattern will be out very soon, which is why I was able to combine the two photoshoots. I'm so excited for this one too, guys! So keep your eyes peeled... It's going to be a lot of fun.
But back to the skirt...It has pockets! This view shows off the in-seam pockets, a nice hidden pocket on the side seam. I like the in-seam pockets as an option for when you don't want patch pockets taking the focus.
The mid-length view is a knee-length skirt. This sample was made in a wool suiting, which provides a lovely body and drape to the gathers. The rectangular patch pockets are the easiest of the two patch pocket views to sew, as it is all straight lines, so much easier to press and sew.
Both patch pocket views have a top part that is seamed on, which adds stability to the top of the pocket. The top of the pocket also angles down at the sides, which complements the design lines of the skirt, as well as working with the natural angle of our hands!
It was really fun styling this look with an autumnal vibe. It's so cosy! Again, with this look you are getting a preview of our next top pattern, which will be out so soon.
This look was again styled with a plain Iris tee. This look is a great example of using a sheer fabric and a lining. Please note, the pattern does not contain separate lining pieces or additional instructions for a lining, but I plan to release extra tutorial content for this in future.
The overlay is an embellished silk mesh, and lining is a nude rayon. It gives a beautifully airy effect. For this look, I opted to leave pockets out, as I did not want visible patch pockets or in-seam pockets that would show through the sheer. I'll leave the technical details for the eventual tutorial, but suffice to say, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out! You could also achieve this look by simply wearing a slip underneath if you didn't want to bother with a full lining!
Enjoy picking the perfect combination of length and pockets to make your perfect skirt!
I hope you've enjoyed learning about the Ella skirt! Remember, for launch week you can get 20% off with code HELLO_ELLA. Just click here to check out the pattern!
I'm looking forward to sharing some very inspiring tester makes, as well as sharing our next pattern with you very, very soon.
If you would like to stay in the know, you can join in on our Instagram and Facebook pages, or sign up to our newsletter.
]]>